Closed End Rivets

When do I need a sealed rivet?

Whenever something has to stay in or out. That covers more work than people expect: boat hulls and marine hardware, tanks and containers, outdoor panels where water tracking through a fastener hole causes staining or interior damage, refrigeration and pressurized enclosures, and electrical housings where a leak path invites a short. The sealing comes from the closed cup, which never opens, so the joint is watertight without sealant, tape, or a second operation. The bonus is strength: because the body is a closed cylinder rather than an open tube, the same diameter carries more shear and tensile load than its open end equivalent.

Why choose closed end rivets

• Watertight and airtight joint with no sealant or secondary sealing step
• 100 percent mandrel retention, so nothing can rattle loose later
• Higher shear and tensile strength than open end rivets of the same size and material
• Blocks corrosive fluids and gases from reaching the joint interior
• Available in matched material pairs for full corrosion compatibility

Material options

• Aluminum with aluminum mandrel, fully matched materials with no dissimilar metal inside the rivet, ideal for aluminum boat and panel work
• 304 stainless steel with stainless mandrel, highest strength and corrosion resistance, the choice for marine and washdown service
• Matched mandrels matter more here than anywhere, since a sealed rivet is usually chosen for a wet environment

Common applications

• Boat hulls, marine hardware, and dock equipment
• Tanks, containers, and liquid handling enclosures
• Roofing, siding, and exterior panels where water tracking causes damage
• Refrigeration, HVAC, and pressurized housings
• Electrical enclosures where a leak path risks a short
• Any outdoor assembly where staining from a leaking fastener is unacceptable

Where sealing is not required, open end rivets do the same job for less. For sealed joints in soft or thin material, look at tri-fold rivets, many of which include a sealing washer.

Related Categories

• Blind Rivets
• Open End Rivets
• Tri-Fold Rivets
• Rivet Washers
• Stainless Steel Rivets

Closed End Rivet FAQs

Are closed end rivets fully waterproof?

The rivet itself seals, yes. The body is a closed cup that water cannot pass through. What it cannot do is seal a poor hole. If the drilled hole is oversized or ragged, water can travel around the outside of the rivet body, so hole quality matters as much as rivet choice on a sealed joint.

Are closed end rivets stronger than open end?

Yes, at the same diameter and material. The closed cylinder resists deformation better than an open tube, giving higher shear and tensile values. You also get full mandrel retention, which contributes to the joint over the long term.

Why are closed end rivets more expensive?

More material and a more involved forming process. The closed cup requires a deeper draw than a simple tube. For sealed applications the extra cost is far cheaper than the leak it prevents, but for general dry work open end rivets are the sensible choice.

Which material should I use for a boat?

Match to the hull. For an aluminum boat, aluminum body with aluminum mandrel avoids any dissimilar metal inside the rivet. For stainless fittings or general marine hardware, 304 stainless with a stainless mandrel gives the best strength and corrosion life.

Can I use closed end rivets in a pressure application?

For low pressure sealing, yes, which is what they are designed for. They are not a substitute for engineered pressure fittings in a rated pressure vessel. Confirm the requirement against the rivet's specification before relying on it structurally.

Do closed end rivets need a special tool?

No, any standard blind rivet tool sets them. Stainless bodies do require more pulling force than aluminum, so a lever riveter or pneumatic tool is worth having for stainless closed end rivets above 5/32 inch.