Blind Rivets (POP Rivets)

How do I choose the right blind rivet?

Four decisions, in order. Style comes first, driven by what the joint has to do: seal out water, sit flush, spread load on soft material, or carry structural shear. Material comes second, matched to what you are joining so the assembly does not corrode from the inside. Diameter comes third, which sets your drill size and largely determines strength. Grip range comes last and is the one people get wrong most often. Grip range is the total material thickness the rivet will clamp, backup washers included. Fall below the minimum and the joint stays loose. Exceed the maximum and the body never forms a proper blind side head, which costs you most of the rivet's strength without looking any different from the front.

Blind rivet styles we stock

• Open end, the standard hollow body, lowest cost and the default for general work
• Closed end, sealed body that blocks moisture and gas, with higher strength than open end
• Large flange, oversized head that spreads load on soft or oversized holes
• Countersunk, 120 degree head that sits flush in a countersunk hole
• Multi-grip, one rivet covering a wide thickness range, reducing how many sizes you stock
• Colored, painted stainless and aluminum in twelve finishes for exposed panel work
• Tri-fold, also sold as tri-bulb, which folds into three legs to grip soft, brittle, or thin material
• Structural, mechanically locked mandrel for high shear and vibration resistance

Materials and mandrels

• Strength runs lowest to highest: aluminum with aluminum mandrel, aluminum with steel mandrel, all steel, then stainless
• Matched body and mandrel materials give the best corrosion life, since part of the mandrel stays in the rivet
• A steel mandrel in an aluminum body costs less and sets stronger, but can rust and streak in wet service
• Copper bodies suit electrical and decorative work and pair with brass or steel mandrels

Common applications

• Sheet metal fabrication, ductwork, and HVAC assemblies
• Trailer bodies, truck panels, and transportation equipment
• Metal building panels, roofing, siding, gutter, and flashing
• Signage, display fixtures, and architectural panels
• Boat and marine hardware, where mandrel material matters as much as body material
• Appliance, electronics, and general product assembly

If you are unsure where to start, open end rivets cover most general work, and closed end rivets are the answer whenever water needs to stay out. You will need a setter from our rivet tools range, and rivet washers for soft or thin backing material.

Related Categories

• Open End Rivets
• Closed End Rivets
• Multi-Grip Rivets
• Structural Rivets
• Rivet Tools

Blind Rivet FAQs

What size hole do I drill for a blind rivet?

Slightly larger than the rivet diameter, so the body slips in without forcing. A 1/8 inch rivet takes a 1/8 inch hole, 5/32 takes 5/32, and so on, drilled to a clean round finish. An oversized or ragged hole leaves the body unsupported and the joint will be weak even if the rivet sets normally.

What is grip range and why does it matter?

Grip range is the span of total material thickness a rivet can clamp, and it is printed on every box for a reason. Below the minimum, the mandrel breaks before the body pulls the panels tight. Above the maximum, the body cannot form a proper head on the blind side. Both failures look fine from the front, which is what makes grip range errors expensive.

Which is stronger, aluminum or stainless rivets?

Stainless, by a wide margin, in both shear and tensile. The order runs aluminum body with aluminum mandrel at the bottom, then aluminum with steel mandrel, then all steel, then stainless at the top. Larger diameter also increases strength within any material.

Does the mandrel material matter after installation?

Yes, because part of it stays inside the rivet permanently. A steel mandrel left in an aluminum or stainless body can corrode in wet service, weakening the joint and leaving rust streaks down the panel. For outdoor and marine work, matched body and mandrel materials are worth the extra cost.

Can I use blind rivets on plastic or fiberglass?

Yes, with care. Use a large flange or tri-fold rivet, or add a backup washer, so the formed head bears on a wide area instead of crushing into the material. Tri-fold rivets are purpose built for soft and brittle stock because they fold into three legs rather than forming a tight ring.

How do I remove a blind rivet?

Center punch the middle of the head to keep the drill bit from wandering, then drill with a bit matched to the rivet diameter until the head separates. Push the remaining body through with a punch. Take care not to enlarge the hole, since you will likely be setting a replacement in it.

What drill size for common diameters?

Why buy Blind Rivets from AlbanyCountyFasteners.com

• Broad selection of diameters, grip ranges, head styles, and materials.
• Options for closed-end, large-flange, tri-fold/peel, multi-grip, structural, and colored heads.
• Fast shipping, bulk pricing, and contractor-friendly quantities.
• USA-based support with practical product guidance.
• Stainless-focused catalog for corrosion-resistant builds.