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Rivet Guns – Tools Used to Install Blind POP Rivets

Types of Rivet Guns and What They’re Used For

In order to understand rivet guns, the first thing to do is understand how a rivet works. Blind rivets, often referred to by the brand name POP rivets, are an incredibly useful fastener designed to hold two materials together with a clamping force. POP Rivets are comprised of two pieces: the hat and the mandrel. The mandrel goes through the inside of the hat and gets pulled during installation. As the mandrel is pulled through the hat, it deforms the back of the hat. Once the deformed portion grips against the back of the installation material the mandrel snaps leaving a clean finished application. It is common for this type of rivet to be used when you cannot get to the back of an installation earning this fastener the name of Blind Rivet. There are several exceptions to this including shave rivets (a rivet where the mandrel needs to be shaved down with a special tool after the installation).

Knowing how rivets work is great but how do you install them? A rivet requires a tool that keeps the hat of the rivet firmly pressed against the installation surface while simultaneously pulling the mandrel away from it. These tools are commonly referred to as rivet guns, riveters, rivet tools or riveting tools. Not only are there many things to call a rivet gun, there are also many varieties.

Types of Rivet Guns:

  • Hand Rivet Gun
  • Lever Riveter
  • Battery Riveting Tool
  • Pneumatic Rivet GunHand Riveter and Accessories

While not all rivet guns were made equal, it is easy to identify the type of rivet gun needed for an application. Read along as we cover the pros and cons of each type or riveter.

Hand Rivet Gun

Hand powered POP rivet guns work with a simple lever and squeeze technique. The first step when using one, is to choose the appropriate sized nose piece. Rivet guns normally come with several options to fit a range of blind rivets. Hand-operated riveters fit a variety of rivets, are usually made of mostly steel with a rubber grip and offer the cheapest cost.

Hand Rivet Guns are an excellent choice for the occasional user. If you find your project having just a few rivets, then this will do the trick. The biggest con on this riveting tool is the squeeze and the amount of time it takes. Used repeatedly, it can be very stressful on the hands, wrists and forearms making it less than ideal for projects requiring many rivets.

Lever Riveter

Lever Riveter Tool

Lever Riveting Tools are the next step up in rivet guns. They also come with nose pieces but work with a wider range of rivet sizes. Lever rivet tools tend to be more heavy duty that a hand rivet gun and are easier on the user. Due to their larger size and lever action, they reduce the amount of physical strength required by the hand riveter. They also come with a collection bottle that catches the snapped mandrels after installation.

To install a rivet using the lever riveting gun, first, open the arms all the way. Then insert the mandrel into the nose piece. Once the hat reaches the nose piece, insert it into the installation hole. Then squeeze the two handles together. This will pull the mandrel in and snap it off. Now hold the lever rivet gun so the nose piece is in the air and open the arms. This will release the hold on the mandrel and it will fall into the bottle catch.

The lever riveting tool is an excellent tool found on many job sites. It makes installing blind rivets easier than using the hand riveter but is still manually done. It does come at a higher price point than the standard hand riveter but also comes with the ability to use a wider and larger range of rivets.



Battery Powered Rivet Tool

Battery Riveting Tool

Battery Powered POP Rivet Guns come in many varieties. The two main types function basically the same way, except for the last step. One type of battery powered rivet gun spits the mandrel out from the front of the gun and the other pulls the mandrel into a mandrel holder, so you do not need to worry about them until emptying the catch.

Battery powered riveters are great for the job site. They offer the versatility of not having a cord and the ease of simply pushing a button to install the rivet. Choosing the version with the mandrel catch is typically more expensive than the other battery powered option. The catch version makes installations faster by collecting the mandrels for you but be careful not to over-fill the catch or the gun may jam.

Pneumatic Rivet Gun

Pneumatic Rivet Guns are powered by compressed air to very quickly and easily install blind rivets. With a built-in catch, the pneumatic riveting tool is easily the fastest way to install rivets.

Pneumatic Rivet Gun

The downside to pneumatic riveters is that they require a hosed connection to compressed air. This limits their versatility and portability more than any of the other tools available, but if the project requires installing a large number of rivets, this is undoubtedly the best tool to use to get it done. It also comes at a significantly lower price point than the electric powered tools.

Shave Rivet Tool

Shave Rivet Tools are a special tool used specifically for shave rivets. On shave rivets, the mandrel does not completely break off. The remainder is then shaved down using one of these tools to create a clean finish on the exposed hat portion. They are commonly used in trailer-based applications to resemble a buck rivet and leave a smooth head without the traditional hole of a standard blind rivet.

Shave rivet tools are a niche item because they are only used with shave rivets. However, there are multiple types of shave rivet tools. There are cheaper versions that act as an adapter to a cordless drill. These are more commonly bought by the DIYer or someone planning on sparingly working with shave rivets. The pneumatic option is much more expensive but works much faster and has supports to provide a smoother finish. They are commonly found in industries that use shave rivets on a regular basis.

Which Rivet Gun is the Best?

Now that we’ve gone over the many varieties of riveter tools, it’s time to determine which to buy when. Since one riveting tool isn’t necessarily “better” than the other we will instead identify which tool you should get depending on your situation.

  • Hand Rivet Gun – This tool is cost effective and ideal for small shops that use smaller size rivets sparingly. They require significant pressure to use and leave mandrel collection to the user which can be a pain.
  • Lever Riveter – The lever riveter is a step up. It’s a little more expensive but does everything you want the hand riveter to do and can’t. It works with larger sizes than the hand rivet gun and makes installations easier by increasing the leverage on the handles. The lever rivet tool comes with a mandrel catch to make cleanup easy.
  • Battery Riveting Tool – Ignoring the differences in battery riveters, both types come with a critical benefit: versatility. They offer powered installations without any cords. They are an ideal choice when commonly working with rivets on job sites.
  • Pneumatic Rivet Gun – Air-powered tools in general boast performance at the cost of being attached to a compressor. The Pneumatic Rivet Gun is no different. If the job calls for an excessive number of rivets, then this is the tool you want by your side.
  • Rivet Shaving Tool – This tool is only used with shave rivets making it a very niche item. For those working with them often, get the pneumatic version to save some time and headache but if you’re only working with them once in a while the drill attachment will get the job done.

Conclusion

While many tool varieties have options available that are totally unnecessary, the rivet gun varieties are different. Each tool has a place in each situation and they perform very well when placed in those situations. Before buying one for yourself, decide what you work with the most often and be realistic about the goals you wish to achieve with the tool.


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Why You Shouldn’t Over-Torque Fasteners

Why You Shouldn’t Over-Torque Fasteners

Everyone who has ever worked with fasteners has accidentally messed one up at some point. One of the most damaging ways to do that is by over-tightening, or over torquing the fastener. This can result in stripping screws, snapping screw heads and damaging pre-tapped threading.

Fastener Torquing

Installing fasteners is an easy task (usually). To do so, you normally apply torque to the fastener, usually a nut or a screw head and simply “screw it in”. When torque and pressure is added to the driver, the fastener begins to spin. In general, although there are exceptions such as the left-hand nut, spinning to the right tightens and spinning to the left loosens (“righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”). The problems start when fasteners are driven too far, or over tightened.

Proper torquing of a flat head deck screw and an over-torqued flat head deck screw

An easy way to picture over-torquing is to take a look at deck screws. Most deck screws have a flat head style. This means when installed correctly, the screw head is supposed to be flush with the surface of the wood. As you can see in the picture to the right, if the fastener is over-tightened, the head is pulled beneath the surface of the wood. The increased surface area pushing against the wood is enough to greatly increase the required torque to tighten or loosen the fastener, which can result in stripping, snapped heads or thread damage which compromises the integrity of the fastener.

When torque is applied to a fastener and it is tightened, it will take an increased amount of torque to further tighten. Most inexperienced people working with fasteners tend to severely over-tighten fasteners thinking it will prevent them from loosening, however, this is not normally the case, and will cause damage to the fastener. To keep a fastener from loosening over time due to vibration and other external factors, a threadlocker solution, locking washer, locking nut or a combination of the three should be used.

While this seems simple enough, when torque is applied to a fastener and it is tightened, it will take an increased amount of torque to further tighten. Most inexperienced people working with fasteners tend to severely over-tighten fasteners thinking it will prevent them from loosening, this is not normally the case. To keep a fastener from loosening over time due to vibration and other external factors, a threadlocker solution, locking washer, locking nut or a combination of the three should be used.

Things to Consider When Torquing Fasteners:

  • Fastener Materials
  • Installation Materials
  • Thread Type

Fastener Materials

When torquing a fastener, the driven portion of the fastener – drive recess or nut – is put under a tremendous amount of stress. This is why it is crucial to use the proper drive size and style on the fastener. Using the wrong size will place an uneven pressure on the recess resulting in a stripped recess or a rounded nut. Since fasteners can be made from different materials ranging from soft metals to heat-treated hardened ones, the torque that can be applied to the fastener will depend on the material the fastener is made out of. For example, an aluminum bolt will not be able to take nearly as much torque as a Grade 8 bolt.

Fastener Drives

The fastener drive style will also matter. Below are the most common fastener drive styles listed from best to worst in terms of torque-taking ability and resistance to stripping:
Drive Styles: Slotted | Phillips | Square | Hex | Star

  1. Star (Torx)
  2. Internal Hex
  3. Robertson (Square)
  4. Pozi-Driv
  5. Phillips
  6. Slotted

Installation Materials

Installation materials can range from plastic all the way to steel which means not only does the torque the fastener can handle matter, the torque the material threading can handle also matters. Torquing a screw in plastic will have a much lower threshold then torquing a screw in steel.

In many installations, ruining the installation hole can end up ruining an entire build. By over-torquing in a softer material, the tapped threading in the hole can be damaged or stripped entirely. This is very common when working with plastic holes. It is generally very easy to over-torque and destroy the threading. To fix this, new threads need to be installed either by re-tapping the whole, or using a threaded insert and more than likely, the diameter of the screw will also need to be increased.

Thread Type

Thread type can also make a difference when it comes to torquing fasteners. There are two basic types of threading:

  • Coarse
  • Fine

Coarse Threading is a deeper but more spread out threading. This makes coarse threaded fasteners more durable because light marring on the threading won’t prevent the threads from spinning.

Fine Threading is a shallower threading but with many more threads per inch. Their tighter and shallower structure makes them less likely to be vibrated loose, but it also means there are more threads holding the fastener in place. Due to these extra threads, the fastener can withstand more torque and distribute it better on the installation material’s threading.

Both types, if torqued too much can cause the threading to slightly warp making it very difficult to remove the fastener later. That warping also weakens and changes the holding power of the fastener.

Torque WrenchThe Best Way to Avoid Over-Torquing

For most DIY projects the best way to avoid over-torquing is just to practice. With practice, knowing when to stop torquing will become second nature.

A torque wrench is a wrench that digitally sets and senses the torque. Once the optimal torque is reached, the clutch inside the wrench will slip preventing the fastener from being tightened further.  Many professional industries follow these torquing guidelines and use these tools to prevent over-tightening.

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How to Mix Fast Setting Concrete

How to Mix Fast-Setting Concrete

concrete block

Whether you’re working making a patio in your back yard or pouring the foundation for a house you’re going to be using concrete. There are two basic types of concrete known as fast-setting and slow-setting. Slow-setting concrete is the type of concrete that can be worked for a longer period of time and takes a longer time to set. Fast-setting concrete is used generally for small DIY applications, patches and small jobs. It also begins to set very quickly so it is ideal for quick jobs. Since Fast-Setting concrete has some learning curves to working with it, you should also check out this article: 10 Tips for Working With Fast-Setting Concrete.

So how do you mix fast setting concrete? Follow our step-by-step guide to find out everything you need to know to mix and use fast-setting concrete.

Step One: Gathering Your Materials

When working with fast-setting concrete, it is crucial to have everything set up and ready to go beforehand. Due to the nature of fast-setting concrete, as soon as you finish mixing it, you’ll want to get it into place quickly.

In order to prepare you will need the following things:

  • A prepared location for the concrete
  • A bag of fast-setting concrete mix
  • The bucket for the concrete to be mixed in
  • Either an electric drill with concrete mixing bit or a masonry trowel for mixing the concrete
  • A second bucket filled with cold water
  • Protective Safety Gear
    • Protective Glasses
    • Protective Gloves
    • Long Sleeve Shirt
  • A garbage bag
  • A hose
  • A location for dumping unused mix and cleaning (*Outside)

When working with fast setting concrete, it is crucial to have everything prepared from the start. Since it sets so quickly, you’ll want to have the area you plan on putting the concrete prepared and have all of your tools laid out and ready to use.

Step 2: Mix the Concrete

concrete mixer

Now that you have all of your materials together, its time to make the concrete! First things first, put on your protective gear. We know this step can be annoying especially when you are in a rush but concrete dust can get into your lungs and eyes when pouring and the lime in the pre-mix can damage your skin. So when working with concrete wear at least safety glasses, a mask and a long-sleeve shirt.

Take the bag of concrete mix and pour it into a bucket. Then, using your mixing tool, stir the concrete pre-mix until it it all very loose and fine. There may be some small chunks which are ok. If there are big chunks, bring the bag back to your local store and get a replacement bag.

Take a step back and look around. Is everything ready to go? Are you going to be able to work straight through until the job is done? Once you answer yes to those questions, it’s time to pour the cold water into the bucket. Note: Do Not use hot water in the mix. It will set much faster making it harder to work with.

Add just a bit of water at a time and use the mixing tool to mix it. The less water you add to concrete the stronger it will be and the faster it will set. Aim for a thick sludgy consistency. During this stage it is important to remember you can always add more water. Don’t go crazy and continue mixing until there are no dry spots left in the bucket.

Step 3: Pour the Concrete

The next step is simple. Pour out or shovel the concrete from the bucket into the area. Then spread the concrete so it sets evenly and smoothly.

Step 4: Cleanuphose

Once your concrete is poured and setting up, you’ll want to clean your bucket and tools. To do this easily, do not wait for the concrete to dry. Go to the area you’ve decided is the dumping location. Then take your hose and wash all of the excess out of the bucket and off the tools. You will want to keep any animals away from it until it dries. DO NOT rinse your tools inside or down a drain. The concrete will catch in the plumbing and cause very costly issues.

Step 5: Put Things Away

Putting your tools back is the easy part. Simply put them back in the location they came from. Next, roll up the bag (if there is any left) of concrete pre-mix making sure as much air is out as possible. Then take the bag and place it inside of the garbage bag from earlier. Do the same thing to remove as much air as possible and tie the bag shut. Then store it in a dry location. This is important because concrete left out too long in the humidity or exposed to the elements will absorb moisture and harden, resulting in the leftover pre-mix being useless.

That’s it. You did it! Now you’re ready to get out there and start building something amazing.

Now that you’ve learned all the tips and poured your concrete, you’re going to need fasteners to attach something to it. Check them out here: Masonry Anchors and Concrete Screws

How to Mix Fast Setting Concrete

How to Mix Fast Setting Concrete
How to Mix Fast Setting Concrete Transcript

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Bob:Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners – Fasteners 101. I’m Bob and today I’m going to show you how to mix some concrete. Let’s get started.

This is a bag of concrete – 50 pounds. It’s quick-setting concrete. This is what I selected. They have quick-setting, they have slow setting, you know, many different mixtures. You can find it at your home improvement store. This is by Quikrete. I did many years of concrete work and many would think that, you know, “it’s a bag of concrete; it’s pre-mixed.” Well there are some important things that you need to know. Especially with fast setting concrete.

Fast-setting concrete sets very quickly, so you have to have your materials ready before you mix the concrete. I’m going to show you how to properly mix the concrete.

So I poured some of this fast setting concrete into this bucket. It’s a 5-gallon bucket I guess. You get these at Lowe’s or Home Depot, any of those. One good thing to do before you put any water in is to make sure you mix the materials around after you pour it out of the bag. That makes sure that all the materials are nice and loose. Now a couple of tips: If you go to your box store and you buy a bag of this product and you come back, and you have chunks or it’s not fine, bring it back, get a new bag. Sometimes when they ship these products they’re out exposed to the elements; they could get hit with water, and then the product starts to set up which is no good. So I would highly recommend that you make sure that you have fine product.

Now I’m gonna go get some water and we’re gonna start to mix the product. So, I went and got my water. This is cold clean tap water. Do not use hot water. Hot water will set the concrete faster, so you want to avoid doing that. It’s a good thing to just pull out of the center here, and pull to the side some of the concrete and basically just dig a little hole there to pour the water in. I’m going to start to pour this in then I’m gonna mix it. You want to go a little bit at a time, not too much, because then it’ll become too soupy and then you’ll have to put some more concrete in, which I might have to do here but I’m just gonna keep mixing it.

I’ll probably need more than what I have here anyway. To do this little project I’m doing. You just keep mixing it. Make sure you get the bottoms and the sides. Because otherwise you’re gonna have dry pockets with dry concrete. You got to make sure you mix it well. Now I’m using this ladle, you can also get a battery drill and put a concrete auger on it and mix it that way. For this I’m just doing it by hand.

Make sure you get down to the bottom. You get everything mixed well. I’m almost down there now. Now you don’t want it soupy like it is here. So I’m going to add some more concrete to this but you want to make sure that it’s well mixed. You’re better off when you have fast-setting concrete that it’s a little more wet because the drier the faster it’s going to set up on you. I’m all the way down to the bottom now. Now it’s coming together well. Okay I’m going to add some more concrete. I like to start off more soupy than dry because it makes it easy to get everything that’s on the bottom.

If you’re working on your project and as you get to the bottom and find the concrete is setting up, because this is fast set, do not add water to loosen up the product. Throw it out. Start off with a new batch, even if it’s a little bit. Just make sure you put a little bit in there with very little water, sometimes with cups of your hand or a little cup. Pour the water in as you mix it so you can finish your project off. It’s a little tip. Always a little bit at a time. Don’t go too fast because if you put too much in then it’s going to get very dry very quickly and then you have to put more water in.

This is getting perfect now. Now this is a small batch. You can get a big tub with a hoe and you can mix it. Break your bags open and put it into a big bin. We’re almost there. This is getting to the perfect consistency that I want. This is also fast setting. So fast setting, once it starts to get to that consistency, will start to set up pretty quickly. Just a little bit more. Not much…I think this is gonna do it. Yep. Now you can see it. That’s what I’m looking for. Okay. I don’t see any dry material. You want to make sure you have nothing dry.

You want to make sure it’s thoroughly mixed and always wear protection. You need gloves. You should have a mask on, so you don’t inhale this stuff. It’s not the greatest stuff for you. Concrete has lime in it. You need to protect your skin from it because if you use it many, many times, it also can do some damage to your skin. They don’t tell you that typically but you learn that over the years.

So here we are. Looks good. Just found a dry spot there. But I think I’m good for my little project. That’s the perfect consistency that I want. It’s not too watery but it is nice and chunky and thick. This will set up pretty quickly once I put it into the product that I’m trying to develop here for my next video. A piece of concrete that is already setting up and then you pour a fresh batch on top of that, they call that a cold joint. That’s where you’re going to have a possible break and you will see a joint in the concrete. So you kinda wanna-when you’re working with concrete-you want to move fairly quickly. Especially fast setting. Slow setting, normal setting, you know it’s much easier to work with. I would highly recommend that, if you haven’t worked with concrete before.

If you have a bag and you have extra material, it’s good to roll this up, take it, put it in a plastic bag like so. Seal it up tight. Make sure you don’t have any holes in the bag because once you break that paper bag open moisture in your garage or your basement will start to penetrate the concrete and then when you go to use it let’s just say two months three months, this will prolong the life. If it’s over a year old chances are that you’ll come back to this and it will be chunky. You just need to throw it out at that point.

A final tip: cleaning. Do not clean concrete buckets out in your slop sink, your toilet, your regular sink in your house, your bathtub, don’t do it. Clean it outside. Get a hose, clean the concrete out in your grass somewhere that you just don’t want to see it. Though it will leave a residue around. If you clean it out in your sink, slop sink, toilet, or your bathtub, the trap in the plumbing will collect the concrete sand and it will set up in there and the end result is it will reduce the amount of flow of water and whatever else is in there by a substantial amount. Thus clogging your sink eventually. Hair will cling to it. A lot of people do this. It’s a big mistake. Don’t do it. That’s how you mix a bag of concrete. I probably used about 75% of this bag. Thanks for watching.

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10 Tips for Fast Setting Concrete

10 Tips for Working With Concrete - Designed Logo

10 Tips for Fast Setting Concrete

Fast-setting concrete is incredibly easy to work with. It is important to know some tips and tricks to help make working with it easier, especially if you are new to it. With that in mind, we asked our Fastener Expert, Bob, to tell us some tips we should think about when working with fast setting pre-mixed concrete. Below are his top tips for working with concrete.

Never worked with fast-setting concrete before? No Problem! Read this post as well: How to Mix Fast Setting Concrete

1. Bags of Pre-Mixed Concrete Can Be Bad When You Buy Them

To use Fast-Setting Concrete, all you must do is add water to the pre-mix. This sounds simple, but often when being delivered to the store, the mix is exposed to the elements. If caught in the rain or humidity long enough, the concrete mix will absorb some of the moisture and begin hardening.

When you first buy and open a bag, you’ll want to check for any large chunks of hardened concrete. Not only will you not be able to use this bit, but it will also change how much space the concrete can cover. If there are any large chunks, bring it back to the store it was bought from and get it changed out for a new bag.

2. Fast-Setting Concrete Sets Quickly

This one may seem self-explanatory, but often someone will begin mixing the concrete prematurely resulting in the concrete beginning to harden prior to placing it where it needs to go. A better method is to make sure all materials are present and any spreading or moving tools are also present and ready before mixing the concrete.

3. Before Mixing the Concrete

Ok, so the tools are out, you have your location set up and now you need to mix the concrete right? Wrong. First add the concrete pre-mix into your bucket. Then take the mixing tool, whether it be a concrete spreader or a concrete mixing auger, and mix the dry pre-mix.

This practice helps prevent large clumps from being an issue later. Before adding anything to the pre-mix ensure that it is mostly loose, and any chunks are broken down. Try to make the pre-mix as fine as possible before use.

4. Don’t Use Hot Wateruse cold water with fast-setting concrete pre-mix not hot water

When mixing fast-acting concrete with water, use cold water. Hot water will make the mix harden significantly more quickly.

When adding the water to the concrete pre-mix, take a tool and scoop out the middle creating a hole. Pour the water into the hole. This will help during the mixing process as some of the water is now closer to the pre-mix at the bottom of the bucket.

5. Start Slow and Add Water a Bit at a Time

To get the concrete mix to a good consistency, add the cold water a little at a time. Doing so prevents the pre-mix from getting too thin or “soupy”. Ultimately, this type of concrete should be a thicker sludge consistency (chunky and thick) when done properly.

Don’t panic if too much water is added during the mixing and it becomes too thin. Just add more concrete to the mix and keep mixing until there are no dry spots left inside the container. This is when a battery-drill and concrete mixing bit come in handy.

6. Make It More Wet If You Are Less Experienced

Fast-setting concrete sets very quickly, as the name suggest. If you are inexperienced with working with concrete, add a little extra water to the mix. This will increase the amount of time it takes the concrete to set. *Note: When adding extra water, you still do not want to compromise the sludge-like consistency. Just add a little bit more than normal.

7. If Mixing A Lot, Start Off With Too Much Water

If the project is going to require a large amount of concrete, add some of the pre-mix then add in too much water. This may sound contradictory, but it makes the mixing process easier than trying to get the water mixed down to the bottom of a 50 lb. bag of pre-mx. Imagine if it was with 10 bags. Mixing would be incredibly difficult.

8. If the Mix Begins to Set Throw It Out

concrete-cement-mixing-truck

Using fast-setting concrete requires the project to be fast from start to finish. If the mix begins to harden and set in the bucket before the job is complete, throw it out.

Even if only a very small amount is needed to complete the project, mix fresh concrete to finish the job. Unfortunately, adding more material this way will cause a cold joint (see tip 9 for more details).

9. Adding Wet Concrete Mix to Set Concrete Forms a Cold Joint

Due to the way concrete dries, when you add more concrete to the old set material, it will not properly connect to the old concrete. This can cause cracks prematurely in the material. The location where fresh mix is added to set concrete is referred to as a cold joint. If possible, avoid these and get the entire job done at once. This will significantly increase the lifespan of the concrete.

10. Bag Your Bag of Pre-Mix for Next Time

As we went over earlier, Concrete Pre-Mix is a very dry substance. If left in a humid environment, it will absorb the moisture out of the air and begin hardening. To prevent this, after you’ve opened a bag of concrete, roll up the bag as much as possible and tuck it into a plastic garbage bag.

Attempt to get as much of the air out of the garbage bag as possible before tightly tying it shut. This will greatly increase the shelf-life of the mix.



Extra Tips:

We know we said 10 tips, but we just couldn’t finish this post without mentioning the posts below.

Extra Tip 1: Wear A Mask, Long-Sleeves and Gloves

Concrete pre-mix is incredibly dry. When pouring it into the bucket you are going to use, the powder will fly all over the place coating whatever is nearby. To best protect yourself from the material, use a mask (rated for the material) to prevent breathing it in.

Also wear long sleeves and gloves while working with the material. Concrete has lime in it. If skin is exposed to the pre-mix, especially often, it will harm and damage the skin.

Cleaning Out the Bucket

Many people do not think about what happens to the concrete after you finish a project. It is common to find inexperienced users have washed it out in their sink or bathtub. DO NOT DO THIS. Washing out concrete into the plumbing of a house can cause expensive damages. Often the concrete will stick in the catch or to a pipe and begin accumulating other debris blocking up the pipes or septic system. The best solution is to wash out the bucket outside with a hose. It will leave a residue in the grass (or a chunk of concrete depending on how much you’ll be washing out. While that is not ideal it is better than damaging your house’s internal plumbing.

Now that you’ve learned all the tips and poured your concrete, you’re going to need fasteners to attach something to it. Check them out here: Masonry Anchors and Concrete Screws



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Indirect vs. Direct Ventilation Safety Goggles – When To Use Each

Indirect vs.Direct Ventilation Safety Gogglesindirect vs direct safety goggles

Safety Goggles come in many shapes and sizes. In fact, safety goggles are only one variety of Safety Eyewear. Today, there is such a wide variety of safety goggles available it can be tough to decide which ones are right for you. One of the driving factors taken into consideration is the type of ventilation. Safety goggles are designed to seal around your eyes and provide splash protection, but these non-vented goggles tend to fog up making it more difficult to see. So what type of goggles do you need?

Indirect Ventilation Goggles

What Are Indirect Vented Safety Goggles?

 

Safety goggles with indirect ventilation have a venting system that does not allow for direct contact of particles to the interior of the goggles. This is achieved by adding angled vents which face away from the front lens that the wearer looks through.
The vents on indirect vented goggles are normally adjustable so they can be turned to fit the user’s needs. Indirectly vented safety goggles are the ideal choice for dealing with chemicals where chance of splash is possible. Due to their reverse facing vents, it will be significantly harder for the material to reach the wearer’s eyes during use. One of the only cons of indirectly vented safety goggles is that due to the angle that air must flow through to reach the eyes, these goggles are not as well ventilated as direct vent safety goggles.

indirect vent

Benefits of Indirect Vent Safety Goggles:
  • Angled vents to protect eyes from splashes and particles
  • Made of malleable rubber to absorb impacts
  • Venting system prevents glasses from fogging over
A Good Pair Of Indirectly Vented Safety Goggles Will Also Have The Following Qualities:
  • Adjustable elastic strap
  • Fits over glasses
  • Scratch resistant lens



Direct Ventilation Goggles

What Are Direct Vented Safety Goggles?

Safety goggles with direct ventilation are goggles that have ventilation holes directly through the frame of the goggles to the inside environment. These ventilation holes are generally very small and placed around the top and/or sides of the goggles. They are excellent for professional and general purpose DIY-ers applications to prevent flying particles from reaching the eyes.
Direct vented goggles are great when there is a large amount of fine debris floating around in the air of the work area. Sure, a pair of safety glasses will protect your eyes from larger debris, but safety goggles add the benefit of forming to your face around the eyes which creates a better seal. So, unless the debris is to come through the very small ventilation holes, the internal environment is safer than when using safety glasses instead of goggles. Direct vent safety goggles are a great choice unless working with chemicals, liquids or extremely fine particle materials.

direct vent holes

Benefits of Direct Vent Safety Goggles
  • Perforated vents to provide smooth airflow while working
  • Made of malleable rubber to absorb impacts
  • Venting system prevents glasses from fogging over
A Good Pair Of Directly Vented Safety Goggles Will Also Have The Following Qualities:
  • Adjustable elastic strap
  • Fits over glasses
  • Scratch resistant lens

Which Should You Choose?

To make this decision easier look at the chart below. Which pair of goggles fit your needs?

Indirect Vent Direct Vent
  • Indirect Air Flow
  • Works With: Dry Particle and Liquid Chemical Materials*
  • Durable Impact Absorbing Material
  • Scratch Resistant Lens
  • Direct Air Flow
  • Works With: Dry Large Particle Materials
  • Durable Impact Absorbing Material
  • Scratch Resistant Lens
SHOP INDIRECT VENT SAFETY GOGGLES

*Indirect Safety Goggles are a great choice for most liquid applications. However, dealing with large amounts of reactive chemicals may still have potential to cause damage by getting into the indirect vents. Always make sure safety goggles are compliant with the standards of the work environment.



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