Albany County Fasteners - Nuts, Bolts, Screws, Washers, Rivets & Industrial Supply

Rust: Three Types of Rust and How They Occur

What Is Rust?

Dealing with fasteners surely means dealing with waking up and realizing there is a horrible rust streak running down the side of your project from a screw that has begun to rust. But Why? What is rust anyway? What other types of corrosion may be occurring that you did not even realize? Today we answer that question and we start, with rust.

Rust Is the Result of Oxidization.

Wait…Before we explain, we must talk about the untold truth. There are three kinds of rust! THREE? Yes, three. Since you probably are only familiar with the most common red rust, that is where we will begin.

Red Rust

Red Rust is actually a mixture of four things.

  • Iron/Steel
  • Water
  • Oxygen
  • Time

When Iron/Steel is exposed to water and oxygen for a long period of time the iron/steel actually combines with the oxygen on the atomic level. This creates rust or ferric oxide. Once this process has begun it begins to deteriorate the metal itself.

Black Rust

Underneath this reaction hidden by the red is actually another layer of oxidization known as black rust or black oxide. This layer is harder and thicker than red rust and can also be called magnetite. This rust will stay tightly bound to the to the base material and act as a partial protection from a further oxidization process. Note: We were not able to create this type of rust as an low oxygen environment is typically needed to induce black oxide.



White Rust

White rust occurs on the surface of Zinc plating. It appears as a coating of powdery white zinc oxide. This oxidization process will occur just from being exposed to the atmosphere but can be avoided by adding a chrome coating before it has been exposed for a long period of time.

This is a HDG carriage bolt whose end has been sheared off.

The lack of protective coating on the end has led to the the coated material corroding.

You can also see that light zinc white surface corrosion has also started to take place.

 

Types of Corrosion

There are two types of corrosion that can occur resulting in these rusts. There are also several forms in which oxidization commonly takes place.

Chemical Contact

The first type of corrosion is through direct contact with the harmful chemicals. These chemicals can be anything that compromise the integrity of a material. From acids to oxides themselves as long as the material physically comes in contact with them the result is corrosion.

Galvanic Corrosion

This type of corrosion is entirely based on two metals being paired that have electromagnetically dissimilar properties. We won’t go into the chemical details here but basically the two metals try to even out their electromagnetic properties. This will compromise the materials resulting in faster corrosion in one metal while slowing it down in the other.

Forms of Corrosion

As we now know, in order for oxidization to occur there must be some factor coming into contact with the material.  This can happen in many different way but there are a few that are considered the most common.

Stress Corrosion

This type of corrosion occurs when stress exerted on a material meets with the corrosive effect from some other property whether it be environmental or physical. This is commonly referred to as environmental hydrogen embrittlement.

Localized Corrosion

Many materials have some type of protective barrier or coating. For example, stainless steel has a thin film that occurs naturally to protect it from corrosion. If this barrier is penetrated then corrosion can start to occur in these areas. Although we used stainless steel in this example, stainless steel can actually repair itself in the presence of oxygen making it less susceptible to this type of corrosion.

Surface Corrosion

This is the most common type of corrosion created by the material being in a harsh environment. Whether it be sand or a damaged material prior to being installed, this exposure between the metal that has been coated and oxygen which leads to oxidization or rust.

Crevice Corrosion

This occurs by corrosive chemicals being caught in small areas in the material and being held there. This will result in corrosion occurring faster.



What Do We Do!?!

As you can see rust is everywhere. Luckily, we can combat corrosion and oxidization in a number of ways. The first is to be vigilant about the materials you are using for your projects. Make sure they fit the environment you need them to. For more information on materials and their environments you can check out our fastener material resource guide here!

Another option, which we also recommend doing with the correct materials is using MRO anti-seize solutions! This anti-seize can make installing screws and bolts a breeze but will also add a thin corrosion resistant coating that may extend the life of your fasteners.

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Measuring Fasteners: Using a Fastener Gauge

How To Measure FastenersMeasuring Fasteners

Measuring fastener gauges come in many shapes and sizes. We’ve seen paper print outs, rulers and measuring devices before but when we found this one we liked it so much we made it available on our store to give you the same ease of measuring we now use.

Click here to buy this fastener measuring tool.

Measuring Diameter

This measuring tool works for both imperial and metric sizing. You can find the size of a bolt or screw by placing it into one of the circular cut outs. These cut outs are very close to the size of the bolt or screw providing a distinct fit for determining a diameter of the fastener.



Measuring Length

Once you have your fastener diameter, the next step is to measure the length. This tool easily allows you to measure fastener length up to 6 inches. Simply place your fastener head at the end of the ruler and measure the length of your fastener.

Note: While many fasteners are measured from the underside of their head to the tip, flat head fasteners are measured from the top to the tip. To facilitate this, this measuring tool comes with an etched area on the other side of the ruler to sit the head in for an accurate reading every time.

Measuring Nuts

This gauge also has cut notches that protrude from the sides which can be used to measure nuts. Simply slide a nut onto one of these notches. It should fit snug on the notch to give you an accurate size.

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Stainless Steel & Aluminum: Why You Shouldn’t Use Them Together and Proper Precautions To Take If You Do

Why Can’t You Use Stainless Steel and Aluminum Together

Galvanic Corrosion

The combination of aluminum and stainless steel causes galvanic corrosion. In order to understand why you shouldn’t use stainless steel and aluminum together, we first need to understand how galvanic corrosion works. Galvanic corrosion is the transfer of electrons from one material (anode) to another (cathode). In addition to knowing what galvanic corrosion is, we also need to understand the technical terms that go along with it.

Here are all of the technical terms we will be using during this post:

  • Anode – material that is positively charged, electrons leave this material
  • Cathode – material that is negatively charged, electrons enter this material
  • Electrolyte – liquid that aids in the process of electron transfer
  • Corrosion/corrode – Destroy or weaken metal gradually

How It Works

Galvanic corrosion occurs when two materials (an anode and a cathode) come into contact with each other and an electrolyte. Electrolytes can be environmental factors such as humidity or rainwater. When these factors come into play, electron transfer will begin to occur. Depending on the level of resistance in an electrolyte, this transfer can happen much faster. This is why salt water, an electrolyte with a very low resistance, is a common factor when considering what product to use. Due to this, it is incredibly important to consider what material you are going to use in an environment.  When working with a marine, salt water environment, you even need to consider the type of stainless steel you are using.

There are multiple kinds of rust that can occur during the oxidization process. To find out more about them please read this blog post about Three types of rust that frequently occur.

Our Example

For the rest of our post, instead of referring to anode and cathode, we will be using the example of aluminum (anode) and stainless steel (cathode). When aluminum and stainless steel are used in an assembly together, the electrons from the aluminum will begin to transfer into the stainless steel. This results in the aluminum weakening. This weakened aluminum causes it to deteriorate at a much faster rate. This can lead to an extended life of the stainless steel. Note: Aluminum, if left on its own with the electrolyte, will still lose its electrons eventually, but having stainless steel present will significantly speed up this process.

The galvanic corrosion practice is actually commonly used in plating to create a sacrificial layer on top of another material. Zinc plated steel and black oxide are commonly used examples.

Exceptions

Each and every assembly is situational. As metal relies on its environmental factors to corrode, and there may be places where you can use some metals together without seeing these effects. If the environment is very dry, sheltered from weather and dirt then you, may try using metals together. However, in most situations the environment is not temperature and humidity controlled, rust will occur. Due to this, Albany County Fasteners recommends never using aluminum and stainless steel together. We also recommend using metals exclusively for maximum life.  Stainless with stainless, aluminum with aluminum, brass with brass.  Mixing metals can affect the strength of the application, the lifespan of the fasteners, the corrosion of the materials, etc.

The other situation in which these materials can be used together with little impact on rust prevention is if the cathode area is very small when compared to the anode area. For example, if the base material is a large sheet of aluminum, then using very small stainless steel screws will not dramatically decrease the life. Conversely, if you use aluminum to attach a large sheet of stainless steel, the aluminum life will be dramatically shortened.

Albany County Fasteners recommends the use of neoprene EPDM or bonding washers in between stainless fasteners and aluminum materials, the neoprene forms a barrier in between the metals, preventing corrosion.

Environmental Factors To Determine

Many factors need to be considered when choosing the correct material for your installation.

Factor Why It Matters
Duration of electrolyte contact The longer an electrolyte is in contact with aluminum and stainless steel, the more likely there is to be a transfer of electrons.
Electrolyte Resistance The lower the electrolyte resistance the easier it is for electron transfer to occur. Ex: salt water has a very low electrolyte resistance.
Stagnant Water Water that sits and takes a very long time to dissipate can lead to extended exposure to electrolytes.
Dirt Dirt (especially not in direct sunlight) can absorb an electrolyte and hold it for very long periods of time. This can result in increased exposure to the assembly if it is not kept clean.
Humidity/Fog Both are environmental factors that lead to increased water in the air. If the environment is prone to these factors, the exposure to electrolytes is considered to be extended
Crevices Crevices provide a catch for moisture (electrolyte) which can end up holding it against the materials for an extended period of time.

Noble Metals

If you decide that you need to use two different materials together, we recommend using an anode as the base material and making sure that it is significantly larger than the cathodes. Cathodes can also be called noble metals or metals that have a high resistance to oxidation (rust). We have compiled a list of noble metals below:

  • Gold
  • Iridium
  • Mercury
  • Osmium
  • Palladium
  • Platinum
  • Rhodium
  • Ruthenium
  • Silver

From Anode To Cathode

To mitigate the effects of galvanic corrosion even further, it is recommended to use materials that are less likely to cause electron transfer when exposed to each other and an electrolyte. The following list is a list of materials. *Note: the closer the two metals on this list, the less likely they will be to suffer from the negative effects of galvanic corrosion.

  • Magnesium
  • Magnesium Alloys
  • Zinc
  • Beryllium
  • Aluminum Alloys
  • Cadmium
  • Mild and Carbon Steel, Cast Iron
  • Chromium Steel (With Less Than Or Equal To 6% Chromium)
  • Active Stainless Steels (302, 310, 316, 410, 430)
  • Aluminum Bronze
  • Lead-Tin Solder
  • Tin
  • Active Nickel
  • Active Inconel
  • Brass
  • Bronze
  • Copper
  • Manganese Bronze
  • Silicon Bronze
  • Copper-Nickel Alloys
  • Lead
  • Monel
  • Silver Solder
  • Passive Nickel
  • Passive Inconel
  • Passive Stainless Steel (302, 310, 316, 410, 430)
  • Silver
  • Titanium
  • Zirconium
  • Gold
  • Platinum

How Can I Stop Galvanic Corrosion?

There are a few steps you can take if you MUST use these materials together.

  1. Add an insulator between the two materials so they no longer connect. Without that connection, the transfer of electrons cannot occur. Well Nuts are a commonly used fastener to help separate materials that can suffer from galvanic corrosion.
  2. Use materials with the same potential. Metals with the same corrosion resistance are typically ok to use together.
  3. If you are in a situation where only one of the materials will come into contact with an electrolyte then transfer of electrons will not occur.
  4. If there is a coating on the cathode it can prevent the transfer through increased resistance.
  5. Consider your environment before installing. Choose materials that will work for your environment.
  6. Coat or paint your assembly (completely) so that the electrolyte cannot make contact with the materials
  7. Use neoprene EPDM or bonding washers as a barrier in between the metals.

If you’re curious about the types of materials we offer and more about them, check out our Materials Reference Guide.

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Why Do Some Bolts Have Shoulders?

Why Do Some Bolts Have Shoulders?

There are many different types of bolts available for use. From carriage bolts to hex cap screws, many of them can be seen sporting a shoulder (area near the head of the bolt without threading). But why? What does this area do?

Shoulder or Shank?

A shoulder or shank is a term that can be used to describe this unthreaded portion of a bolt. For different types of fasteners the appearance of a shank can mean different things. We made a post a while back about why would screws have a shank; Bolts have a shank for an entirely different reason though.

Bolt Shoulders

Bolt Shoulders exist for two reasons. The first is to create an area on the bolt where sheering is less likely to occur. If a load is pulling sideways against the unthreaded area of a bolt then the bolt will be less likely to snap as the areawhere the pressure is being placed is stronger than the threaded portion. The second reason for a shank is to allow for more versatile uses. This shank can act as an area for something attached to the bolt to be moved around.



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Jobber Vs. Mechanics Drill Bits: The Difference Between Drill Bits

What Is The Difference Between A Jobber and Mechanic Drill Bit?

Jobber drill bits? Mechanics Drill bits? I JUST WANT TO DRILL A HOLE!!

Have you even felt frustrated at how much you have to learn to do something as simple as drill a hole? We feel the same way; that’s why we here at Albany County Fasteners have taken some time today to help you understand the difference between a jobber length and mechanics’ length drill bit so you can be sure to choose the right tool for your job.



Jobber Drill Bits

A jobber drill bit is a bit that has a long length compared to its diameter. Jobbers have a length anywhere from 8-12 or 9-14 (depending on who you ask) times the diameter. These bits can be measured using a number of different systems including a basic number range (1-80), letters (A-Z), wire (increase by whole number), standard metric sizing or in fractional sizes.

As far as fractional sizes are concerned, there are three different size increments used to measure jobber bits:

  • 1/64 inch to 1 inch
  • 1/16 inch to 3 inches
  • 1/8 inch to 3 1/4 inches

Mechanics Drill Bits

The correct terminology is actually a mechanics length drill bit. A “mechanics drill bit” is actually a jobber drill bit. Did you get the joke?

A mechanics length drill bit is simply a bit with a shorter flute length and shorter overall length than a standard jobber bit. This shortening of the bit makes it considerably stronger and less prone to breakage and shearing, making it suitable for harder drilling.



When To Use Each…THE ANSWER!

Determining if you should use a jobber bit vs a mechanics length (jobber) bit, is actually quite simple. A regular jobber bit is best used in softer materials such as wood, composite, and soft metals. For harder materials and hard metal drilling, a mechanics length drill bit is recommended as they are a stronger bit.  Jobber length drill bits are the most common and popular type of drill bits.

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