How To Install A Threaded Insert Into Wood Without The Insert Tool!

Installing A Threaded Insert Into Wood Without The Insert Tool

Threaded inserts are great fasteners that dramatically extend the life of a hole by creating a metal threading point instead of using wood repeatedly. By using metal inserts, the bolt can be installed and removed multiple times without diminishing the hold strength of the hole. The downside of threaded inserts is that they usually require some type of vendor specific bit or driver to install them properly.

We, for example, carry the E-Z LOK Threaded Insert Install Tool. This tool works great for installing these inserts but what happens if you get to a job site and you’ve forgotten the bit that makes working with these inserts so easy at home? The answer is simple, use a tap bolt to create a different drive point for the insert!

Step 1: Drill The Hole

Tap Bolt and Threaded Insert Ready for Installation

Of course, the first step is to drill the right sized hole (if there isn’t one already). The trick to using these in wood is to drill a larger countersunk section that the insert will fit into and then a smaller hole the rest of the way through the material.

Step 2: Screw The Tap Bolt Into The Insert

Tap bolts have an externally driven hexagonal head. This head will sit wider that the threaded inserts head. Before installing the insert, you need something to drive it with. We use a hex tap bolts head as a drive to drive the threaded insert down into the wood.

Step 3: Get The Insert Started

Using a Socket Wrench to Install the Threaded Insert

It is easy to install the threaded insert from this point on. Simply take the assembly and begin hand threading it into the hole with the hex head facing away from the hole. The insert really only needs to begin gripping the wood before stopping and proceeding to step 4.

Step 4: Use A Socket And Ratchet To Quickly Install The Insert

At this point all you need to do is find the appropriate socket for the tap bolt head you are going to drive. Once found, attach it to the ratcheting handle and begin tightening. You will not have to use any down-force for this as the threading should grab on its own and pull itself into the wood. Continue tightening until the insert sits flush or just below the surface and the bottom of the head of the hex tap bolt is sitting flush with the surface of the wood.

Tap Bolt Sitting Flush With Wood Surface

Now that you have installed your threaded insert, switch the ratchet to loosen and break the bolt loose from the insert. You can now remove the bolt and place a different one in if you need or just leave the tap bolt installed if that is what needs to be there.

Installed Threaded Insert Without The Tool

Installing Threaded Inserts in Wood Without a Tool | Quick Tips

Installing Threaded Inserts in Wood Without a Tool Transcript

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Bob: Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners – Fasteners 101. I’m Bob and today I want to demonstrate to you the installation of a (brass threaded) insert.

So there’s two ways you can put this insert in. You can do it with the manufacturers driving tool. Which goes right into a drill or if you don’t have the driving tool you could just use your fastener or a hex cap screw.

Install the hex cap screw all the way into the insert and take the insert and get it started. Grab your ratchet and drive it in. Okay, we’re almost there. Not there 100% yet. Okay. That’s pretty good. Ok, I’ve driven in the insert with a hex cap screw. I’m going to now back this off. Take the screw out and you can see there that the insert is in place.

Now a lot of people have said to me “Whoa you got the insert in backwards”. Fact is, it’s not in backwards it’s in correctly. Each manufacturer and manufactures these differently. This is an EZ-Lok product. This is their system for installing with their tool. But you don’t need the tool to install one of these as I just showed you.

Thanks for watching.

What Screws Should You Use For Building A Deck?

BUY DECK SCREWS

Building A Deck This Summer?

Having a deck in your home is a luxury many people enjoy having. Being able to sit outside and enjoy the weather or view with family and friends is an excellent way to spend nice days, especially with summer right around the corner.

If you decide to take the journey of building a deck yourself, you are going to have many questions along the way. One of the most essential points to consider is “Which screws should I use for this deck?”. We’ve heard this question before, and there are quite a few things to take into consideration.

1. What Material Should I Use?

Of all the available materials to use for your deck, the most common is stainless steel. Stainless steel deck screws offer an excellent solution due to their increased corrosion resistance. However, stainless steel can still corrode in certain situations so make sure you have the correct grade for your environment.

2. Do You Want To See The Screw Heads?

One of the biggest concerns when making your deck is choosing the correct screw head. Deck screws are usually only found in flat head varieties so they can sit flush with the wood once installed. The question remains, do you want to see the head?

If your answer is yes, then a standard stainless steel flat head deck screw will suffice. If your answer is no, then you have a few options for hiding the screw heads.

Painted Head Deck Screws – These stainless steel screws are stainless steel with painted heads to match common wood colors. They are the easiest way to hide a deck screw because they are camouflaged in plain sight. Just install them as you would any other deck screw.
Hardwood Plug Kits – These kits come with little wood corks that you can use to cover the screws. They require more work to install properly but usually leave a great result. First a countersunk hole must be made to sink the screws lower into the wood. Then an adhesive is applied to the plug and placed in the hole over the screw head. One downfall to this method is that removing them is difficult. You can also get a drill bit that can cut these plugs for you instead of buying a kit: Hardwood Plug Cutter Bit.
Ipe Clips – A third and quickly becoming a very popular option are Ipe Clips. Ipe Clips are installed between the boards of a deck hiding the screws entirely. Mostly used with Ipe wood, these clips can also be used with regular wood to help create an evenly spaced deck.

What Drive Style Should I Use?

Usually, there are three types of drive to consider here. Phillips, Square or Star drive. Although all three are decent choices, we recommend using the star drive for installations. The star drive has the least chance of slippage and cam out during installation making it the ideal choice when working with finished products where slipping out of the drive could damage the surface you are working on. In fact, on many decks built today you are more likely to see star drive screws being used.

Building a deck can be a daunting task but with the proper screws you are now one step closer to enjoying your yard and the weather this year.

Top 5 Mistakes To Avoid With Fasteners

The world of fasteners is incredibly large. To understand everything about them it would take years of study and learning the complexities that come with them. Each fastener has been engineered for a specific use but can be used for many other things as well. There is no way to go over everything you can and cannot do with fasteners but we can help you make sure you don’t make some of the major mistakes that should be avoided.

1. Choosing the Wrong Material and Grade

It is the first thing you should consider when buying fasteners. “What material do I need?” There are many materials available and each one has their own properties that make them worth using or ignoring depending on the application. This is not enough however, it must be taken one step further as each material has a different chemical make-up. These unique make-ups are known as material grades. Each Grade also has it’s own properties that make it more or less suited for certain environments.

Ex:

Stainless Steel – Corrosion Resistant

Grade 316 Stainless Steel – Corrosion Resistant Even In Extreme Saltwater Environments

For more information on materials and grades check out our Fasteners 101 Resource on Materials, Grades and Strengths for specific materials and grades and their uses.

2. Using Reactive Materials Together

It is not common knowledge that metals put together can actually weaken their integrity. Take Aluminum and Stainless Steel for example, when they are together and an electrolyte is introduced (such as salt water) electrons transfer creating an unstable balance. This weakens the materials and leaves them susceptible to corrosion. This process is known as galvanic corrosion and should be avoided to extend fastener lifespans.

3. Not Using Appropriate Locking Fasteners

Locking fasteners are an excellent addition to any fastener assembly but there are some situations that absolutely call for them. Any assembly that is subject to harsh or constant vibrations should have some form of locking fastener. For the best results we recommend Nylon Insert Lock Nuts. These nuts have a nylon strip inserted around the top of the nut. As the nut is tightened onto the bolt, the threads cut into the nylon adding extra friction to the assembly.

4. Mixing Threading or Imperial and Metric

Not all fasteners were created equal. One of the most common mistakes is trying to fasten wrong types of fasteners together. Every kind of fastener should easily thread by hand. If you find that the fastener is not seating properly, check the fasteners. There are many fastener measuring tools available for easily checking threading and fastener sizes. Always check what size you need before trying to force the connection.

If you aren’t sure what type of threading you need, check out our Fine Vs Coarse Threading blog post explaining the benefits of each.

5. Wrong Sized Drivers

A Driver is designed to fully fit the driver recess of the fastener. There are different sizes of all types of drivers such as the Phillips 1 or Phillips 2. Always make sure to use the correct driver as a loose driver will drastically increase the change of stripping and cam out.

Also, for sockets and wrenches, make sure the correct drive is being used. Many people attempt to use a metric socket on an imperial hex head because it is a close match. Do Not Do This. The recess is not a close enough match and will put most of the force on the points of the hex head. Too much torque and those points will deform resulting in a stripped hex head.

Pro Tip:

Use Supplementary Supplies

Supplementary supplies, such as threadlocker, are not products to ignore. They have real tried and tested benefits.

Threadlocker solution should be added to assemblies facing vibrations as well as lock washers to deter accidental loosening.
Anti-seize lubrication should be added to assemblies (especially stainless steel) to increase ease of installation and prevent galling.
Drill Bit Lubricant should be used to maximize the life of a drill bit.

These supplementary supplies are designed specifically for applications and when used properly can make a little extra effort go a very long way. Now you know what the Top 5 Mistakes To Avoid With Fasteners are and how to avoid them.

Should I Use: Coarse Thread Vs. Fine Thread Fasteners

Coarse Thread Vs. Fine Thread Fasteners

Which One Should I Use?

Coarse thread vs. fine thread fasteners is one of the most common questions in the industry. Surprisingly, many people don’t know that there are some significant trade-offs to the type of threading you choose for a project. Each kind of threading has some benefits that the other lacks.

Threading are uniform ridges of varying height and width (from fastener to fastener) that wrap around a cylinder. This helical shaped threading can be either wide set and deep which are considered coarse thread while a more narrow helical shape with shallow ridges is considered to be fine thread. Both have benefits the other lacks, so which one should you choose?

Coarse Thread

Coarse thread fasteners are an excellent choice for most applications. Commonly chosen for construction simply because their threading can be lightly damaged and still work effectively. Coarse threading allows for more material to sit between these threads as they are installed. Due to this, it is harder for coarse threaded fasteners to strip or cross thread. Their extra tolerance allows for nicks or marring to occur on the edges of the threading without inhibiting the ability to fasten them.

Coarse threading is also much less likely to gall then fine threading. Fine threading requires many more turns per inch which generates more friction. Excess friction dramatically increases the chance of galling in fasteners. Regardless we recommend using an anti-seize solution especially on stainless steel fasteners. Coarse threading also handles obstructions (such as dirt) in the threading better. They can be fastened even when not fully clean.

Fine Thread

While coarse threading fasteners are better suited for general purpose applications, fine thread applications tend to have many benefits that make them the ideal choice when specifics matter. Fine threading has a higher tensile strength than coarse threading and it can be measured more accurately. Making them the ideal choice for specific strength applications.

Fine threading consists of very shallow peaks and valleys when compared to coarse. As a result, tapping a hole for fine threading can be significantly easier as there is much less material to cut to form the threads. Fine threading also has a very shallow pitch (helical angle). This makes vibrations less effective at loosening fasteners over time. Fine thread fasteners are ideal for environments where vibration is considered an issue.

Now that you know how to compare coarse thread vs. fine thread fasteners, you can make the right choice when deciding on which fasteners you need for a project. For more information about fasteners, check out our Fasteners 101 reference pages.

Types Of Screws | Albany County Fasteners

Types of Screws

Screws are a fastener variety that is widely used every day. They come in many shapes and sizes and all have different uses depending on the type of screw. The word screw and bolt are often used interchangeably. You will often see smaller fasteners called screws and as they get bigger they are referred to as bolts. Generally, the term screw defines any fastener that after being installed into the material holds itself into that material. A bolt is used to bolt two materials together by going through the materials and being fastened with a nut, creating a bolted joint. Consider that a machine screw needs a nut or a pre-tapped hole to install.

Screw Terminology

Screw Terminology Diagram: Drive Style, Head Type, Shank, Threading, Point, Diameter, Length, Threads Per Inch, and Thread Pitch

Material: The material that a screw is made out of. Often chosen based on environmental and structural needs.
Grade: Different compositions of a material that can change it’s qualities, making it a better choice based on environmental and structural needs.
Diameter: The thickness of the over-all screw. Determines the size of the hole that needs to be drilled into the materials.
Length: How long a screw is. This measurement can vary depending on the head style of the screw.(See Helpful Resource #2)
Threads Per Inch (TPI): Amount of thread peaks measured from peak to peak in an inch length of the fastener. Used to measure threading for imperial fasteners.
Thread Pitch: Distance between two thread peaks. Used to measure threading for metric fasteners.
Drive Style: Indicates the type of driver to be used for optimal results. For example: A Phillips head indicates a Phillips driver should be used.
Head Type: The top portion of the screw and contains the drive style. Screws have different head types based on the application they are being used for. Some make the screw flush with the installation surface while others leave the screw head exposed for a quality finish.
Shank: Refers to an unthreaded portion under the head of several types of screws. This can vary based on the length, diameter and type of the screw. The shank aids in compression and clamping force of the installaton materials, as well as, reducing the chance of breaking due to over-heating.(See Helpful Resource #1)
Threading: The portion of the fastener that has a helical shape rolled into it. Causes the screw to pull into the material and hold in place.
Point: The very tip of a screw. Depending on the type of screw, a variety of points can be available. For example: Drill Point, TEK Points.

*Note: A drive style usually has several different sizes as well. Usually indicated by a number for example: Phillips #2

Measuring Screws

Screws are measured in diameter by length. An example of an imperial screw measurement would be a #7 x 1″ deck screw. The #7 is the pre-defined diameter of the screw and the 1″ is the length of the screw. Imperial diameters range from 0 to 24 and their lengths are measured in inches. When measuring a metric screw, you use the same format of diameter by length, but both are measured using millimeters. For example, an M5 x 10M means a diameter of 5mm and a length of 10mm. It is not uncommon when dealing with screws to see the thread pitch added in as well.

Imperial	Metric
1/4″-20 x 1″	M5 x .8 x 10M

As seen above, the thread pitch is added into the middle. For imperial the 20 stands for 20 threads per inch whereas with the metric the .8 stands for .8 threads per millimeter. It is common practice to leave out the thread pitch on screws during the listing process as the pitch matters less because it does not have to match a nut. When measuring the length of screws, the head of the screw will matter. For most screw types you measure from the bottom of the head to the tip. An exception to this rule is a flat head. Always measure flat head screws from the top of the head to the point.

Screw Installation

Installing screws is a simple process. Using either a screwdriver or drill/driver with the appropriate driver bit, place even pressure on the drive recess and being spinning it. The way you will need to spin depends on the orientation of the screw threads although most are right-hand threaded (meaning spin to the right). Some screws have self-drilling points which are essentially a notched tip that allows a screw to drill into the material as it is being installed. Wood screws should always have a hole pre-drilled before installing them. Pre-drilling into wood will prevent cracks and splintering from occurring especially when working with hardwood. Self-tapping screws have sharp cutting threads that will cut deeply into the material during installation for a more secure hold.

Types of Screws

Screws are all engineered for different purposes. It is best practice to use a wood screw for wood for example because it was designed to have the optimal hold in wood applications.

Concrete Screws

Concrete Screws are easily distinguished by their blue coating which protects them in harsh conditions. They cut threads into concrete and are used to secure materials to concrete, brick or block.

Deck Screw

Deck Screws

Deck screws feature a type 17 notched point for removing chips of wood to make it easy to install in wood and composite deck materials.

Lag Screw

Lag Screws

Lag screws, commonly called lag bolts, are large wood screws with threading that extends all the way up the shaft.

Self Drilling Screws

Self-Drilling Screws

Self-drilling screws are screws with a self-drilling (TEK) point to pierce through 20 to 14-gauge metals. The higher the TEK number, the larger the drill point to pierce heavier gauge metals.

Sheet Metal Screws

Sheet metal screws have sharp cutting threads that cut into sheet metal, plastic or wood. They have a fully threaded shank and sometimes have a notched point at the tip to aid in chip removal during thread cutting.

Wood Screws

Wood screws are partially threaded with large cutting threads and a smooth shank. They are designed to slide through the top piece of wood and tightly pull all boards together. A Deck Screw is a variety of a wood screw.

Screw Drive Styles

There are many screw drive styles available depending on the type of screw being installed. The four most popular styles for screws are the following:

	SLOTTED A straight line cut into the center of the head.
	PHILLIPS The most common drive style. Shaped like a cross.
	SQUARE A square shape, resists stripping out.
	TORX / STAR / 6 LOBE Torx drive, also known as star drive, is considered the least likely to strip during a proper installation and provides a more decorative drive finish.

There are many other head types including internal hex (Allen Driven) and other more specialty heads called security heads which include spanner, Torx with pin, Philips with pin, and many more.

Screw Heads

Screw heads serve different purposes, a flat head is used to countersink the screw so nothing remains exposed. While others have more decorative or functional properties. There are many common heads on screws and each usually serves a different purpose depending on the application. Listed below are the common head types found on screws and their functions.

	Bugle Head A Bugle Head is similar to a flat head with a rounded section that will pull down drywall instead of cutting through it as it is fastened.
	Button Head A button head is a rounded head, used primarily in socket cap screws. This head sits above the installation surface.
	Button Flange The button flange head is similar to the regular button head style but with a flange or integrated washer to increase surface area during an installation.
	Fillister Head A head with a higher profile than other head styles.
	External Hex Head This head is designed to be driven by a wrench and allows for high torque installations. The head of all lag screws.
	Hex Washer Head A head that is designed to be driven by a wrench with an integrated washer or flange to increase the installation surface area. A common head for driving concrete screws due to its stronger installation points.
	No Head Exclusive to the socket set screw, lacks a head and has an internal drive in the body of the screw itself.
	Flat Head A flat head is designed to be drilled into a material until it sits flush with the installation surface.
	Oval Head Similar underside to that of a flat head screw but with a decorative rounded top. Commonly used as a finish screw in visible applications.
	Pan Head A screw with a rounded head (less so than a button or round head) and a flat bottom designed to sit directly on the installation surface.
	Pancake Head A flat topped head with a wide head to sit close to flush but also have a large surface area on the installation material for grip.
	Round Head A completely rounded head that was very popular but has become less so with the variety of heads now available.
	Truss Head With a wider installation surface area, this style is used where a lower profile is desired but a strong grip is needed.
	Modified Truss Head Similar to the truss head but with an integrated washer which increases the surface area of the head even more.

Screw Threading

Screws have both coarse and fine threading options available. Both have a place when it comes to choosing screws. Coarse thread screws tend to have a larger pitch and size relative to the diameter. This thicker threading provides more retention and gripping power (resistance to pull-out). Fine thread screws have thinner more frequent threading which prevents these screws from vibrating loose accidentally. Fine thread screws are also considered to be significantly more delicate than coarse threaded screws.

Downside Of Screws

Screws are an excellent fastener to use for a wide variety of projects but have a couple of downsides.

Shear Strength – Screws have a relatively weak shear strength. If the application will be under shear forces, bolts or nails should be used instead.
Hold – Sometimes screws loosen and it can be caused by a variety of factors.
1. Temperature Change which causes the material to expand and contract resulting in a less firm hold.
2. Vibrations cause loosening in most fasteners over-time by rotating them out of their installation.
3. Varying Weight fluctuations in load can cause screws to loosen as well by warping the material and screws themselves.

Installing A Threaded Insert Into Wood Without The Insert Tool

Step 1: Drill The Hole

Step 2: Screw The Tap Bolt Into The Insert

Step 3: Get The Insert Started

Installing Threaded Inserts in Wood Without a Tool | Quick Tips

Installing Threaded Inserts in Wood Without a Tool Transcript

Building A Deck This Summer?

1. What Material Should I Use?

2. Do You Want To See The Screw Heads?

What Drive Style Should I Use?

Top 5 Mistakes To Avoid With Fasteners

1. Choosing the Wrong Material and Grade

Ex:

2. Using Reactive Materials Together

3. Not Using Appropriate Locking Fasteners

4. Mixing Threading or Imperial and Metric

5. Wrong Sized Drivers

Pro Tip:

Use Supplementary Supplies

Coarse Thread Vs. Fine Thread Fasteners

Which One Should I Use?

Coarse Thread

Fine Thread

Types of Screws

Screw Terminology

Measuring Screws

Screw Installation

Types of Screws

Screw Drive Styles

SLOTTED

PHILLIPS

SQUARE

TORX / STAR / 6 LOBE

Screw Heads

Bugle Head

Button Head

Button Flange

Fillister Head

External Hex Head

Hex Washer Head

No Head

Flat Head

Oval Head

Pan Head

Pancake Head

Round Head

Truss Head

Modified Truss Head

Screw Threading

Downside Of Screws

Helpful Resources