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10 Tips for Fast Setting Concrete

10 Tips for Working With Concrete - Designed Logo

 

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10 Tips for Fast Setting Concrete

Fast-setting concrete is incredibly easy to work with. It is important to know some tips and tricks to help make working with it easier, especially if you are new to it. With that in mind, we asked our Fastener Expert, Bob, to tell us some tips we should think about when working with fast setting pre-mixed concrete. Below are his top tips for working with concrete.

Never worked with fast-setting concrete before? No Problem! Read this post as well: How to Mix Fast Setting Concrete

1. Bags of Pre-Mixed Concrete Can Be Bad When You Buy Them

To use Fast-Setting Concrete, all you must do is add water to the pre-mix. This sounds simple, but often when being delivered to the store, the mix is exposed to the elements. If caught in the rain or humidity long enough, the concrete mix will absorb some of the moisture and begin hardening.

When you first buy and open a bag, you’ll want to check for any large chunks of hardened concrete. Not only will you not be able to use this bit, but it will also change how much space the concrete can cover. If there are any large chunks, bring it back to the store it was bought from and get it changed out for a new bag.

2. Fast-Setting Concrete Sets Quickly

This one may seem self-explanatory, but often someone will begin mixing the concrete prematurely resulting in the concrete beginning to harden prior to placing it where it needs to go. A better method is to make sure all materials are present and any spreading or moving tools are also present and ready before mixing the concrete.

3. Before Mixing the Concrete

Ok, so the tools are out, you have your location set up and now you need to mix the concrete right? Wrong. First add the concrete pre-mix into your bucket. Then take the mixing tool, whether it be a concrete spreader or a concrete mixing auger, and mix the dry pre-mix.

This practice helps prevent large clumps from being an issue later. Before adding anything to the pre-mix ensure that it is mostly loose, and any chunks are broken down. Try to make the pre-mix as fine as possible before use.

4. Don’t Use Hot Wateruse cold water with fast-setting concrete pre-mix not hot water

When mixing fast-acting concrete with water, use cold water. Hot water will make the mix harden significantly more quickly.

When adding the water to the concrete pre-mix, take a tool and scoop out the middle creating a hole. Pour the water into the hole. This will help during the mixing process as some of the water is now closer to the pre-mix at the bottom of the bucket.

5. Start Slow and Add Water a Bit at a Time

To get the concrete mix to a good consistency, add the cold water a little at a time. Doing so prevents the pre-mix from getting too thin or “soupy”. Ultimately, this type of concrete should be a thicker sludge consistency (chunky and thick) when done properly.

Don’t panic if too much water is added during the mixing and it becomes too thin. Just add more concrete to the mix and keep mixing until there are no dry spots left inside the container. This is when a battery-drill and concrete mixing bit come in handy.

6. Make It More Wet If You Are Less Experienced

Fast-setting concrete sets very quickly, as the name suggest. If you are inexperienced with working with concrete, add a little extra water to the mix. This will increase the amount of time it takes the concrete to set. *Note: When adding extra water, you still do not want to compromise the sludge-like consistency. Just add a little bit more than normal.

7. If Mixing A Lot, Start Off With Too Much Water

If the project is going to require a large amount of concrete, add some of the pre-mix then add in too much water. This may sound contradictory, but it makes the mixing process easier than trying to get the water mixed down to the bottom of a 50 lb. bag of pre-mx. Imagine if it was with 10 bags. Mixing would be incredibly difficult.

8. If the Mix Begins to Set Throw It Out

concrete-cement-mixing-truck

Using fast-setting concrete requires the project to be fast from start to finish. If the mix begins to harden and set in the bucket before the job is complete, throw it out.

Even if only a very small amount is needed to complete the project, mix fresh concrete to finish the job. Unfortunately, adding more material this way will cause a cold joint (see tip 9 for more details).

9. Adding Wet Concrete Mix to Set Concrete Forms a Cold Joint

Due to the way concrete dries, when you add more concrete to the old set material, it will not properly connect to the old concrete. This can cause cracks prematurely in the material. The location where fresh mix is added to set concrete is referred to as a cold joint. If possible, avoid these and get the entire job done at once. This will significantly increase the lifespan of the concrete.

10. Bag Your Bag of Pre-Mix for Next Time

As we went over earlier, Concrete Pre-Mix is a very dry substance. If left in a humid environment, it will absorb the moisture out of the air and begin hardening. To prevent this, after you’ve opened a bag of concrete, roll up the bag as much as possible and tuck it into a plastic garbage bag.

Attempt to get as much of the air out of the garbage bag as possible before tightly tying it shut. This will greatly increase the shelf-life of the mix.



Extra Tips:

We know we said 10 tips, but we just couldn’t finish this post without mentioning the posts below.

Extra Tip 1: Wear A Mask, Long-Sleeves and Gloves

Concrete pre-mix is incredibly dry. When pouring it into the bucket you are going to use, the powder will fly all over the place coating whatever is nearby. To best protect yourself from the material, use a mask (rated for the material) to prevent breathing it in.

Also wear long sleeves and gloves while working with the material. Concrete has lime in it. If skin is exposed to the pre-mix, especially often, it will harm and damage the skin.

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Cleaning Out the Bucket

Many people do not think about what happens to the concrete after you finish a project. It is common to find inexperienced users have washed it out in their sink or bathtub. DO NOT DO THIS. Washing out concrete into the plumbing of a house can cause expensive damages. Often the concrete will stick in the catch or to a pipe and begin accumulating other debris blocking up the pipes or septic system. The best solution is to wash out the bucket outside with a hose. It will leave a residue in the grass (or a chunk of concrete depending on how much you’ll be washing out. While that is not ideal it is better than damaging your house’s internal plumbing.

Now that you’ve learned all the tips and poured your concrete, you’re going to need fasteners to attach something to it. Check them out here: Masonry Anchors and Concrete Screws



Indirect vs. Direct Ventilation Safety Goggles – When To Use Each

 

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Indirect vs.Direct Ventilation Safety Gogglesindirect vs direct safety goggles

Safety Goggles come in many shapes and sizes. In fact, safety goggles are only one variety of Safety Eyewear. Today, there is such a wide variety of safety goggles available it can be tough to decide which ones are right for you. One of the driving factors taken into consideration is the type of ventilation. Safety goggles are designed to seal around your eyes and provide splash protection, but these non-vented goggles tend to fog up making it more difficult to see. So what type of goggles do you need?

Indirect Ventilation Goggles

What Are Indirect Vented Safety Goggles?

Safety goggles with indirect ventilation have a venting system that does not allow for direct contact of particles to the interior of the goggles. This is achieved by adding angled vents which face away from the front lens that the wearer looks through.
The vents on indirect vented goggles are normally adjustable so they can be turned to fit the user’s needs. Indirectly vented safety goggles are the ideal choice for dealing with chemicals where chance of splash is possible. Due to their reverse facing vents, it will be significantly harder for the material to reach the wearer’s eyes during use. One of the only cons of indirectly vented safety goggles is that due to the angle that air must flow through to reach the eyes, these goggles are not as well ventilated as direct vent safety goggles.

indirect vent

Benefits of Indirect Vent Safety Goggles:
  • Angled vents to protect eyes from splashes and particles
  • Made of malleable rubber to absorb impacts
  • Venting system prevents glasses from fogging over
A Good Pair Of Indirectly Vented Safety Goggles Will Also Have The Following Qualities:
  • Adjustable elastic strap
  • Fits over glasses
  • Scratch resistant lens

Direct Ventilation Goggles

What Are Direct Vented Safety Goggles?

Safety goggles with direct ventilation are goggles that have ventilation holes directly through the frame of the goggles to the inside environment. These ventilation holes are generally very small and placed around the top and/or sides of the goggles. They are excellent for professional and general purpose DIY-ers applications to prevent flying particles from reaching the eyes.
Direct vented goggles are great when there is a large amount of fine debris floating around in the air of the work area. Sure, a pair of safety glasses will protect your eyes from larger debris, but safety goggles add the benefit of forming to your face around the eyes which creates a better seal. So, unless the debris is to come through the very small ventilation holes, the internal environment is safer than when using safety glasses instead of goggles. Direct vent safety goggles are a great choice unless working with chemicals, liquids or extremely fine particle materials.

direct vent holes

Benefits of Direct Vent Safety Goggles
  • Perforated vents to provide smooth airflow while working
  • Made of malleable rubber to absorb impacts
  • Venting system prevents glasses from fogging over
A Good Pair Of Directly Vented Safety Goggles Will Also Have The Following Qualities:
  • Adjustable elastic strap
  • Fits over glasses
  • Scratch resistant lens

Which Should You Choose?

To make this decision easier look at the chart below. Which pair of goggles fit your needs?

Indirect Vent Direct Vent
  • Indirect Air Flow
  • Works With: Dry Particle and Liquid Chemical Materials*
  • Durable Impact Absorbing Material
  • Scratch Resistant Lens
  • Direct Air Flow
  • Works With: Dry Large Particle Materials
  • Durable Impact Absorbing Material
  • Scratch Resistant Lens
   

*Indirect Safety Goggles are a great choice for most liquid applications. However, dealing with large amounts of reactive chemicals may still have potential to cause damage by getting into the indirect vents. Always make sure safety goggles are compliant with the standards of the work environment.

 

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What Is Pozidriv? How Does It Differ From A Phillips Drive?


What Is Pozidriv?Pozidriv bit and Pozidriv screw

Pozidriv, commonly spelled incorrectly as “Pozidrive”, is an improved variation on the Phillips drive design. After the patent for the Phillips head expired, the company GKN Screws and Fasteners created the Pozidriv design.

The Pozidriv drive style was originally formed to address the largest issue Phillips heads are prone to: cam-out. Cam-out is defined as the slipping out of a drive recess that occurs when torque exceeds a certain limit. The Pozidriv drive style has the same self-centering design of a Phillips drive style but improves upon the two following factors:

  • Increased torque without cam-out
  • Greater surface contact engagement between the drive and the recess in the fastener head making it harder to slip when installed correctly

Can I Use a Pozidriv on a Phillips Screw? Or Vice-Versa?

While we at Albany County Fasteners do NOT recommend using the improper drive style on a screw, technically speaking you can. A Phillips drive style fits into a Pozidriv drive recess decently when using the right size. It’s important to note that even if the Phillips does fit snugly into the drive recess, it is still much more likely to strip or cam-out than when using the proper driver.

Alternatively, you can attempt to remove a Phillips screw with a Pozidriv drive but they do not fit into the Phillips drive recess snugly and are much more likely to slip or damage the recess during removal.

Where Are Pozidriv Screws Used?

Pozidriv screws can be used just about anywhere, although they are not nearly as popular as standard Phillips screws. Over the years, many other drive styles, such as the Torx and Robertson, have come out as being more reliable than the Phillips drive style at preventing cam-out and stripping. The Phillips drive is still extremely popular in manufacturing due to its self-centering design but is starting to lose popularity for manual applications due to other drive styles having a better design.

Benefits of the Pozidriv Drive Style

As an improvement on the Phillips drive style, the main benefit of using the Pozidrive is the increased torque without the increased risk of cam-out. Pozidriv screws can handle significantly more torque on the fastener recess than a Phillips drive can.

How Do You Identify A Pozidriv Screw?

While Phillips and Pozidriv screws look similar, Pozidriv are actually quite easy to recognize at a glance. This is due to four notches marked into the head of the Pozidriv screw that are not present in the Phillips Head Screw.

Phillips Pozidriv
Phillips Drive Recess Profile Pozidriv Drive Recess Profile



Pozidriv Screwdrivers

The Pozidriv drive style can be found in a range of sizes from 0-5. The letters PZ or PSD are usually listed before the size number (e.g. PZ3 or PSD5). ANSI standards refer to Pozidriv as a “Type IA”. The Pozidriv style can be found in two forms. Either as a Pozidriv screwdriver or as a Pozidriv screwdriver bit. We currently carry Pozidriv driver bits in several different sizes in the following Vega Bit Kits:

Pozidriv vs.

Phillips

The Pozidriv is an improvement on the Phillips drive by increasing its torque capacity without increasing the likelihood of cam-out. It also has greater surface area contact with the drive recess. This makes it less likely to strip when installed correctly. In general, you can determine if a Pozidriv screw should be used over a Phillips screw by asking the question “How much torque do I need for this installation?” If the answer is a minimal amount of torque, the Phillips drive will work, otherwise, use the Pozidriv. As an improvement on the original Phillips style, the Pozidriv style is better than the Phillips.

Torx

The Torx, or Star, drive style vastly changes the design of the drive recess. Due to the star having six points of contact (6-Lobe), the screw uses a truly radial force rather than an axial force. Phillips and Pozidriv screws use an axial force to drive the screw which is not as effective and is more likely to cause cam-out. For manual applications, Torx screws are quickly becoming the most popular choice.

ROBERTSON

The Robertson, or square, drive is quite common especially throughout Europe. The square drive offers a unique style as it must fit perfectly into the drive recess to drive properly. When it comes to Robertson vs. Pozidriv styles for manual applications, the Robertson is the winner. However, the square drive is not nearly as popular as the star drive style.

Conclusionpozidriv screw and pozidriv insert bit from Vega set

While the Pozidriv drive style is an improvement upon the Phillips drive style, the Phillips is still incredibly popular and does not seem to be going anywhere any time soon.

Should you be in the manufacturing field and find you are having trouble with cam-out, you may want to attempt a Pozidriv configuration. It will give you the added benefits of a reduced cam-out with a better fit into the drive recess while preserving the self-centering functionality that is a must for manufacturing. For manual applications however, both the Star and Square drives are better choices to better suit your needs.



Flame Resistant vs Flame Retardant – What’s Better?

Flame Resistant vs Flame Retardant

Anyone that has ever been burnt will tell you to respect heat. Burns are one of the worst types of injuries. They don’t heal quickly, can be incredibly painful and in some cases, it can be a chore to keep the wound clean while it heals.

Often with burns, first comes fire. Fire can be incredibly dangerous in the right circumstances and because of this. Many companies now have stringent rules and regulations in place to limit risks.

While fires at work may not seem to be a problem you think will affect you, burn related injuries can be around any corner, especially in the Oil and Gas industries, Iron Working, Welding and more. In fact, the American Burn Association reported that approximately 486,000 people received medical treatment for burns in 2016.

Now the basics of putting out a fire (especially once you are on fire) should have already been covered when you were in elementary school. Stop, Drop and Roll are great recommendations for things to do once you’re already on fire but is there a way we can avoid it all-together?

As it turns out, there is. One of the most common ways to avoid burns is to stay away from hot things. Well that really isn’t an option for certain professions, so flame resistant and flame-retardant clothing rules became standardized for those industries. But what are they? What’s the difference? And how do they work? Is Fire Resistant better than Fire Retardant? Or Vice Versa? Let’s take a look.

flame resistant vs flame retardant break image

Flame Retardant

flame retardant chemicals

Fire retardant clothing are composed of just about any material. That sounds odd but fire retardant anything is actually just an item coated in a chemical spray designed to limit a fire’s impact on the object.

Fire retardant chemicals are not as popular as they used to be due to some of them having toxic chemicals. Fire retardant chemicals are commonly used on plastics and furniture to help reduce the chance of fire spreading. Flame Resistant Chemicals have evolved to also provide other features such as stain guarding.

Flame Retardant Sprays Worth Trying:

*Fire retardants may wash out on clothing. Always check the manufacturer recommendations for instructions applying, maintaining or removing the chemicals.

Flame Resistantflame retardant clothing / safety gear

Flame resistant clothing is made from fabrics that are inherently resistant to catching on fire. This means the flame-resistant material naturally deters fire. Unfortunately, many clothing lines have mixed materials, so you need to be careful when buying.

Flame resistant materials, while they can catch fire if exposed directly to a flame, are not likely to catch fire just from being near the fire. Also, should a fire-resistant material catch fire, the fire will have a hard time staying lit. Many of these materials will choke the fire, causing it to extinguish.

Listed Below Are Several Flame Resistant Materials:

  • Coated Nylon
  • Carbon Foam
  • Wool
  • Leather
  • Gypsum Boards
  • Concrete
  • Cement
  • Glass

Flame Retardant and Resistant Clothing

Flame retardant and flame-resistant clothing play an important role in many industries. From Oil and Gas all the way to the furniture manufacturing, fire retardant and resistant fabrics are a critical factor for engineers.

This is no exception when it comes to safety gear. Fire resistant/retardant safety vests, shirts and gloves are all examples of gear that has been designed or treated to provide users with an extra layer of protection from flame. Flame retardant/resistant clothing can be very safe but is not meant to be exposed to heat for a long amount of time.

Flame Resistant vs Flame Retardant – Who Wins

While both flame resistant and flame-retardant methods both have their place in safety apparel and other industries, flame resistance is probably considered much safer than flame retardant alternatives. There have been many discussions about the toxic chemicals that can be found in flame retardants and their negative impact on our health, and even ecosystem.

The best solution to fire is to be careful to avoid it whenever possible in unsafe environments. In fact, even when in a safe environment, fires are dangerous and should always be closely monitored. Flame resistant and flame-retardant clothing, are only meant to keep you safe and prevent injury until you can move to a safe location, it doesn’t mean that you can stand in a fire.

flame resistant vs flame retardant break image (2)

What Are Structural Rivets?

What Are Structural Pop Rivets?

Structural pop rivets (structural blind rivets) are rivets that are specially designed with a locking mechanism to hold the mandrel in place. Before we talk about how exactly a structural pop rivet works, we should begin with how pop rivets in general work.

Pop or Blind rivets are comprised of two parts: the hat and the mandrel. A rivet hat is the portion of the rivet that deforms and stays in the installation. The mandrel is the portion of the rivet that is pulled into the rivet and mostly removed. A standard pop rivet mandrel has a designed flaw near the base of the mandrel which makes it easier to snap.

To install a rivet, first a hole needs to be drilled into the two materials. The hole should be just wide enough for the rivet hat to fit into. Once the rivet is sitting in the two materials, a rivet installation tool is used to pull the mandrel through the rear of the hat while keeping the hat pressed firmly against the installation surface. As the mandrel is pulled into the hat it deforms the back of the hat causing it to widen and pull firmly up against the rear of the installation surface. Once the torque is reached the weakened point of the mandrel will snap resulting in a complete rivet installation.



How Do Structural Rivets Work?

Structural Blind Rivet Diagram

Structural rivets work slightly different from the typical blind rivet. A structural blind rivet has a built-in (internal) locking mechanism that is designed to hold the mandrel inside of the rivet after the exposed portion snaps. This is commonly referred to as an interlock rivet. Notice how in the diagram to the right, the portion of the mandrel to the left of the hat is also much larger in a structural rivet than in a standard pop rivet.

There are several reasons structural rivets keep the mandrel locked inside the hat once installed:

  • Increased Shear Strength
  • Increased Pullout Strength
  • Higher Resistance To Vibrations
  • In some cases, they are also said to be considered weather-proof

How To Install Structural Rivets

Installing a structural blind rivet can be done basically the same way as installing a standard pop rivet:

  1. Line up the two installation materials
  2. Choose the appropriate drill bit to match the diameter of the structural rivet
  3. Drill a hole through both materials
  4. Insert the rivet through both materials into the hole
  5. Attach a rivet installation tool onto the mandrel
  6. Activate the tool to draw the mandrel out towards the installation surface
  7. Once the mandrel snaps it is completely installed

How To Remove Structural Rivets

Removing a structural rivet is just as simple as removing a standard blind rivet. To remove a structural rivet:

  1. Punch a starting hole into the center of the rivet
  2. Get a drill bit that is the same diameter as the hole originally drilled
  3. Add some lubricant to the drill bit
    1. *If the rivet is spinning, cover it in tape to prevent it from spinning
  4. Drill through the rivet with the drill bit until it goes completely through the hole

How To Install Rivets With A Lever Rivet Tool

How to Install Structural Rivets

Common Industry Uses For Structural Rivets

  • Commercial Vehicles
  • Sheet Metal
  • Electrical
  • HVAC
  • Agricultural Equipment



Pop/Blind Rivet Installation Tools

Hand Operated Riveter
Hand Riveter
Industrial Lever Riveter
Industrial Lever Riveter
Battery Operated Riveter
Pneumatic Riveter
Pneumatic Air Riveter

*Pro Tip: Rivet measuring can be quite confusing try using an Rivet Gauge or our all-encompassing Rivet Guide to answer all of your rivet questions!