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Roofing Installation Fasteners

Complete guide to roofing nails, screws, and fasteners

⏱️ 5 min read
📦 4 Product Categories
Expert Recommended
Quick Answer: What You'll Need

For most roofing installation projects, you'll need:

  • Roofing nails for asphalt shingles (1-1/4" to 1-1/2" galvanized)
  • Self-drilling screws for metal roofing with sealing washers
  • Coil roofing nails for pneumatic nailers (high-volume installations)
  • Cap nails for felt paper and underlayment installation

Scroll down for detailed product recommendations and installation tips.

Recommended Products for Roofing Installation

These are the most commonly used fasteners for roofing installation projects

SHINGLES
Roofing Nails
Galvanized nails designed specifically for asphalt shingle installation
  • 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" lengths for shingles
  • Large diameter head prevents blow-off
  • Hot-dip galvanized coating
  • Smooth or ring shank options
  • Meets building code requirements
METAL ROOF
Metal Roofing Screws with Washers
Self-drilling screws with rubber washers for metal panel roofing
  • #12 or #14 diameter self-drilling
  • EPDM rubber sealing washers
  • Painted head options to match roof
  • 1" to 3" lengths available
  • Weather-tight seal when installed
FELT PAPER
Cap Nails for Underlayment
Large plastic cap nails for securing felt and synthetic underlayment
  • 1" plastic cap prevents tearing
  • Galvanized steel shank
  • Various lengths for different applications
  • UV-resistant cap material
  • Designed for temporary fastening
PNEUMATIC
Coil Roofing Nails
Wire-collated nails for pneumatic roofing nailers
  • 120-count coils for efficiency
  • Hot-dip galvanized finish
  • Ring shank for maximum hold
  • 15-degree wire collation
  • Compatible with most roofing nailers

Why These Specific Fasteners?

Roofing Nails Have Large Heads to Prevent Blow-Off

Standard nails have small heads that can pull through shingles during high winds. Roofing nails feature oversized heads (typically 3/8" diameter) that distribute clamping force across a larger area of the shingle. This prevents the nail from pulling through during wind uplift events. The large head is critical for roof integrity - it's the difference between shingles staying attached or blowing off in storms. Building codes specify minimum head diameter requirements for this exact reason.

Galvanized Coating Resists Weather

Roofs are exposed to the harshest conditions - direct sun, rain, snow, and temperature extremes. Regular steel nails would rust within months, staining shingles and weakening connections. Hot-dip galvanized nails have a zinc coating that prevents corrosion for decades. The coating is applied by dipping nails in molten zinc, creating a thick protective layer. For coastal areas, consider stainless steel nails which offer even better corrosion resistance in salt air environments.

Metal Roof Screws Have Rubber Washers to Seal

Metal roofing panels expand and contract with temperature changes. Unlike shingles, metal roofs must be fastened with screws, not nails. These screws feature EPDM rubber washers under the head that compress when the screw is driven, creating a weather-tight seal around the penetration. The rubber remains flexible through temperature changes and UV exposure. Drive screws until the washer is slightly compressed but not over-compressed - this maintains the seal while allowing for panel movement.

Proper Length Critical for Wind Rating Compliance

Building codes specify minimum nail penetration into roof decking to achieve required wind uplift ratings. For standard 3-tab shingles on 1/2" OSB or plywood decking, 1-1/4" nails provide adequate penetration. Thicker architectural shingles may require 1-1/2" nails. The nail must penetrate through the shingle and at least 3/4" into the decking. Using nails that are too short compromises the roof's wind resistance and voids warranty. Always check local building codes and manufacturer specifications.

Installation Tips & Best Practices

Professional Installation Tips
  • Use 4 nails per shingle minimum: Building codes require minimum 4 nails per standard shingle. High wind zones or slopes over 60 degrees require 6 nails per shingle for proper wind resistance.
  • Nail placement just below adhesive strip: Position nails just below the adhesive strip on the shingle, about 5/8" up from the bottom edge. This hits the sweet spot where nails penetrate both layers of shingles.
  • Don't overdrive nails: Nails should be driven flush with the shingle surface, not countersunk. Over-driven nails tear the shingle material and reduce wind resistance. Under-driven nails can snag and damage upper shingles.
  • Metal roofing screw placement: Drive metal roofing screws until the rubber washer is slightly compressed and makes full contact with the panel. Don't over-tighten - this crushes the washer and compromises the seal.
  • Space screws every other corrugation: On corrugated metal panels, install screws in every other "valley" or rib. Follow manufacturer patterns - typically 12" to 24" spacing along panel edges and 24" to 36" in field areas.
  • Install in fair weather conditions: Wet shingles don't seal properly and are slippery. Never install roofing in wet, icy, or extremely hot conditions (over 85°F causes shingles to become fragile and tear easily).
  • Follow local building codes: Wind uplift requirements vary by region. Coastal and high-wind areas have stricter requirements including more nails per shingle and specific nail patterns. Check local codes before starting.

Ring Shank vs. Smooth Shank Nails: Which is Better for Roofing?

🆚 Side-by-Side Comparison

Ring Shank Roofing Nails

Pros: Superior holding power, threaded rings grip wood fibers tightly, much better wind resistance, harder to pull out, approved for high-wind zones.

Cons: Slightly more expensive, can be harder to drive, more difficult to remove if mistakes are made.

Best For: High-wind areas, coastal regions, premium installations, areas with strict building codes, any location where maximum holding power is needed.

Smooth Shank Roofing Nails

Pros: Lower cost, easier and faster to drive, adequate for normal conditions, easier to remove and correct errors.

Cons: Lower holding power, can work loose over time, may not meet requirements in high-wind zones, less wind resistance.

Best For: Low to moderate wind areas, budget-conscious projects, areas without strict wind requirements, temporary roofing.

Verdict: Ring shank nails are strongly recommended for all roofing installations. The modest price difference is worth the superior holding power and peace of mind. Smooth shank nails are adequate in low-wind areas but ring shank provides better long-term performance. For coastal areas or regions with frequent high winds, ring shank nails may be required by building codes. When in doubt, use ring shank - they're the professional standard.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many nails per shingle are required?
Minimum 4 nails per shingle for standard installations in normal wind areas. Each nail should be placed about 5/8" up from the bottom edge, just below the adhesive strip, with nails spaced evenly across the shingle. High wind zones (wind speeds over 90 mph) or steep slopes over 60 degrees require 6 nails per shingle for proper attachment. The additional nails provide extra wind resistance. Some premium architectural shingles also require 6 nails due to their size and weight. Always follow both local building codes and the shingle manufacturer's installation instructions - using fewer nails than specified will void the warranty.
What are the best screws for metal roofing?
Use self-drilling screws with EPDM rubber washers specifically designed for metal roofing. Size #12 or #14 diameter with 1" to 3" lengths depending on your panel type and what you're fastening to. The screws must have a hex washer head and a self-drilling point (looks like a drill bit) that eliminates pre-drilling. The EPDM rubber washer creates a weather-tight seal. Many manufacturers offer screws with painted heads that match common roof colors. For best results, use screws from the same manufacturer as your roofing panels to ensure proper fit and warranty compliance. Cheap screws with poor-quality washers will leak and fail prematurely.
Should I use galvanized or stainless steel fasteners for coastal roofing?
For coastal areas with salt spray exposure, use stainless steel fasteners (304 or 316 grade) to prevent corrosion. Salt air is extremely corrosive and will attack galvanized fasteners, causing rust stains and structural failure within a few years. While stainless steel costs 2-3 times more than galvanized, it's essential in coastal environments. The investment prevents premature roof failure and the expensive repairs that follow. For areas within 3 miles of salt water or in regions with heavy salt spray, building codes may actually require stainless steel fasteners. Even hot-dip galvanized nails, which are excellent for inland applications, cannot withstand constant salt exposure.
Can I use a regular nail gun for roofing nails?
No, you need a dedicated roofing nailer (also called a coil roofing nailer). These specialized pneumatic nailers are designed for the unique demands of roofing work. They use wire-collated coil nails (typically 120 count per coil) that allow for longer work periods between reloading. Roofing nailers have adjustable depth settings to prevent over-driving, and they're designed to work on angled surfaces. They also have safety features like sequential firing to prevent double-firing. Regular framing or finish nailers cannot accept roofing nails and lack the proper depth control. You can rent roofing nailers from most tool rental shops - well worth it for any roofing project larger than minor repairs.
How do I know what length nail to use for my roof?
The nail must penetrate through all roofing layers and at least 3/4" into the roof decking. For typical installations: 1-1/4" nails work for standard 3-tab shingles on 1/2" plywood or OSB decking. Thicker architectural shingles need 1-1/2" nails. If you have multiple layers of shingles (though removing old shingles is recommended), add the thickness of existing layers to determine required length. For example, if installing over one existing shingle layer, use 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" nails. Building codes may specify minimums - check local requirements. When in doubt, err on the side of longer nails - just be careful not to penetrate completely through the decking where nails might be visible inside the attic.
What causes metal roofing screws to leak?
Leaking metal roof screws are almost always caused by improper installation. The most common mistakes: over-tightening (crushes the rubber washer), under-tightening (washer doesn't seal), driving screws at an angle (creates gaps), or placing screws in the wrong location (ridges instead of valleys on some panel types). The rubber washer should be compressed just enough to make full contact with the metal panel - you should see a slight bulge around the screw head but the washer shouldn't be flattened. Also, using low-quality screws with inferior washers causes premature failures. The rubber washer degrades from UV exposure and temperature cycling over time. Plan to inspect and potentially replace some screws every 10-15 years as part of roof maintenance.

⚠️ Professional Guidance & Safety Notice

The information provided in this guide is for general educational purposes. Roofing work is dangerous and requires proper safety equipment and training. Falls from roofs are a leading cause of construction injuries and deaths. Professional roofing installation requires knowledge of building codes, proper installation techniques, and fall protection systems.

Important Considerations: Local building codes regulate roofing materials and installation methods, including minimum nail counts, nail placement patterns, and wind uplift requirements. These codes vary significantly by region and wind zone. Roofing warranties require proper installation following manufacturer specifications - improper fastening voids warranties. For any roofing project, strongly consider hiring licensed professionals who have proper insurance, safety equipment, and experience.

Safety Note: Never work on roofs during wet, windy, or icy conditions. Always use proper fall protection equipment including harnesses, anchors, and lanyards. Wear non-slip footwear and use roof jacks or scaffolding on steep slopes. Be aware of power lines. Working on roofs in hot weather can lead to heat exhaustion. If you're not trained in roof work and fall protection, hire professional roofers.

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