Complete Guide to Nails
Understanding nail types, sizes, gauges, and applications for every project from framing to finish work
Downloadable Reference Guides
Quick access to all nail specification charts and guides
Nail Types & Styles
Nails are one of the oldest and most versatile fastening methods. Understanding the different types ensures you select the right nail for maximum holding power and professional results.
Construction & Framing Nails
Common Nails
Features: Large flat head, thick shank, smooth or ring shank
- Strongest nail type for structural work
- Wide head prevents pull-through
- Available in bright, galvanized, or coated
- Sizes: 6d to 60d (2" to 6" long)
Best For: Framing, general construction, rough carpentry, sheathing
Shop Common Nails →Box Nails
Features: Similar to common but thinner shank, large head
- Thinner shank reduces wood splitting
- Nearly same holding power as common
- Easier to drive than common nails
- Sizes: 6d to 40d (2" to 5" long)
Best For: Light framing, thin boards, boxes, crates, avoiding splits
Sinker Nails
Features: Thinner than common, smaller head, textured shank, coated
- Most popular framing nail for nail guns
- Coating reduces friction for easier driving
- Countersinks slightly below surface
- Textured/ring shank for better grip
Best For: Pneumatic framing, subflooring, sheathing, general construction
Duplex/Scaffold Nails
Features: Double-headed design for easy removal
- Lower head stops nail at surface level
- Upper head allows easy removal with claw
- Designed for temporary construction
- Sizes: 6d to 16d
Best For: Temporary structures, scaffolding, formwork, bracing
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Finish Nails
Features: Small head, barrel-shaped shank, easily concealed
- Small head for minimal visibility
- Can be set below surface and filled
- Thinner than common nails
- Sizes: 4d to 20d (1-1/2" to 4")
Best For: Interior trim, molding, cabinetry, furniture assembly
Shop Finish Nails →Brad Nails
Features: Very thin gauge (18ga), small head, minimal holding power
- Smallest head leaves tiny hole
- Won't split delicate trim or thin wood
- Used with brad nailers only
- Lengths: 5/8" to 2"
Best For: Delicate trim, thin moldings, craft projects, temporary holding
Shop Brad Nails →Casing Nails
Features: Conical head slightly larger than finish nails
- Tapered head provides more holding power
- Larger diameter than finish nails
- Better for hardwoods and denser materials
- Sizes: 4d to 16d
Best For: Window/door casing, heavy trim, hardwood applications
Headless Pins (23ga)
Features: Nearly invisible, extremely thin, minimal holding power
- Virtually invisible after installation
- Perfect for delicate work
- No filling or touch-up needed
- Lengths: 1/2" to 2"
Best For: Fine trim, veneers, small moldings, picture frames
Specialty & Exterior Nails
Roofing Nails
Features: Large flat head, short shank, galvanized or rubber washer
- Wide head prevents shingle tear-through
- Hot-dip galvanized for weather resistance
- Available with rubber washers
- Smooth or ring shank options
Best For: Asphalt shingles, felt paper, roof sheathing, underlayment
Shop Roofing Nails →Siding Nails
Features: Ring or spiral shank, small head, rust-resistant coating
- Ring shank prevents backing out
- Small head for appearance
- Hot-dip galvanized or stainless
- Available in colors to match siding
Best For: Wood siding, fiber cement, shakes, exterior trim
Shop Siding Nails →Concrete/Masonry Nails
Features: Hardened steel, fluted shank, blunt or sharp point
- Heat-treated for extreme hardness
- Flutes grip concrete and prevent spin-out
- Can be driven with hammer
- Lengths: 3/4" to 4"
Best For: Attaching wood to concrete, block, masonry, foundations
Cut Nails
Features: Square tapered shank, wedge shape, traditional style
- Historical appearance for restoration
- Excellent holding power - wedge action
- Less likely to split than round nails
- Used in timber framing
Best For: Flooring, historical restoration, timber frames, antique projects
Coil Roofing/Siding Nails
Features: Wire-collated in coil form, for pneumatic nailers
- High-capacity coils (120-300 nails)
- Faster installation than hand nailing
- Ring or smooth shank available
- Galvanized or stainless options
Best For: Large roofing/siding jobs, production work, contractors
Shop Coil Nails →Decking Nails
Features: Ring shank, countersinking head, rust-resistant
- Ring shank prevents nail pop in treated lumber
- Countersinking head sits flush
- Hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel
- Resists tannic acid in treated wood
Best For: Pressure-treated decks, outdoor structures, marine applications
Quick Tip: Ring Shank vs. Smooth Shank
Ring Shank (Annular): Rings around shank provide 40% more holding power. Best for softer woods, applications where nails might back out (siding, decking, subfloors).
Smooth Shank: Easier to drive, sufficient for most general construction. Best when nails need to be removed or when driving hardwoods.
Nail Sizing & Gauge Reference
Nails are sized using the "penny" system, denoted by "d" (from the Roman denarius). The penny size originally indicated the cost per hundred nails, but today it corresponds to nail length.
Common Nail Penny Sizes
| Penny Size | Length (inches) | Common Gauge | Box Nail Gauge | Finish Nail Gauge | Typical Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4d | 1-1/2" | 12-1/2 | 14 | 15-16 | Light trim, small projects |
| 6d | 2" | 11-1/2 | 12-1/2 | 13 | Trim, light framing, lath |
| 8d | 2-1/2" | 10-1/4 | 11-1/2 | 12-1/2 | Framing, sheathing, general construction |
| 10d | 3" | 9 | 10-1/2 | 11-1/2 | Framing, heavier construction |
| 12d | 3-1/4" | 9 | 10-1/2 | 11-1/2 | Heavy framing, structural |
| 16d | 3-1/2" | 8 | 10 | 11 | Most common framing nail |
| 20d | 4" | 6 | 9 | 10 | Heavy framing, timber work |
| 30d | 4-1/2" | 5 | 9 | - | Large timber connections |
| 40d | 5" | 4 | 8 | - | Heavy structural work |
| 60d | 6" | 2 | - | - | Post and beam, heavy timber |
Wire Gauge Chart
Understanding wire gauge helps you select nails with appropriate thickness for your material. Lower gauge numbers indicate thicker nails.
| Wire Gauge | Diameter (inches) | Nail Type | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| 23ga | 0.025" | Headless pins, micro pins | Nearly invisible, very delicate work |
| 18ga | 0.048" | Brad nails | Small trim, won't split thin wood |
| 16ga | 0.063" | Finish nails (small) | Light trim, molding |
| 15ga | 0.072" | Finish nails, angled finish | Standard finish work, cabinetry |
| 13ga | 0.092" | Finish nails (large) | Heavy trim, hardwoods |
| 11ga | 0.121" | Box nails, siding | Light framing, reduces splitting |
| 10ga | 0.135" | Sinker, box nails | Framing, sheathing |
| 8ga | 0.165" | Common nails (16d) | Standard framing nail |
| 6ga | 0.207" | Common nails (20d-40d) | Heavy framing |
| 2ga | 0.283" | Large spikes (60d) | Timber framing, railroad spikes |
Length Selection Rule of Thumb
For maximum holding power, nails should penetrate at least 2/3 of the way through the second piece of material, or a minimum of 1" into solid wood.
- Example 1: Attaching 3/4" board to solid lumber → Use 2" nail minimum (2-1/2" preferred)
- Example 2: 1/2" sheathing to studs → Use 2" nail (1-1/2" penetration)
- Example 3: 1/4" trim to 3/4" backing → Use 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" finish nail
Download Size Chart
Complete nail sizing reference with penny sizes, gauges, and lengths
Nail Size ChartNeed Help Determining the Right Size?
We can help you calculate the correct nail length and gauge for your specific application
Contact Our TeamMaterials, Coatings & Finishes
Selecting the right material and finish ensures your nails perform properly and last in their intended environment.
Nail Materials
Bright Steel (Uncoated)
Features: Basic carbon steel with no coating
- Most economical option
- No rust protection
- Silver/gray appearance
- Will rust when exposed to moisture
Best For: Interior use only, temporary construction, dry environments
Electro-Galvanized (EG)
Features: Thin zinc coating applied electrically
- Light rust protection
- Shiny silver appearance
- Good for interior or light exterior
- Less protection than hot-dip
Best For: Interior exposed areas, light exterior use, economical protection
Hot-Dip Galvanized (HDG)
Features: Thick zinc coating applied by immersion
- Excellent corrosion resistance
- Dull gray appearance with coating texture
- 3-4x thicker than electro-galvanized
- Most common for exterior nails
Best For: Exterior siding, roofing, decking, treated lumber, coastal areas
Stainless Steel (304/316)
Features: Corrosion-resistant alloy, no coating needed
- Superior corrosion resistance
- Won't rust or corrode
- 316 for marine/harsh environments
- More expensive than coated steel
Best For: Marine, coastal, treated lumber, high-corrosion areas, food service
Aluminum
Features: Lightweight, naturally corrosion-resistant
- Won't rust or cause staining
- Softer - easier to bend or break
- Good for cedar and redwood (no staining)
- Limited structural strength
Best For: Cedar, redwood, aluminum siding, non-structural applications
Copper
Features: Premium material for specialty applications
- Excellent corrosion resistance
- Attractive weathering patina
- Won't stain wood
- Most expensive option
Best For: Cedar roofs, slate roofing, historic restoration, premium work
Specialty Coatings
Vinyl/Plastic Coated
- Reduces driving friction by 30-40%
- Easier to drive, less splitting
- Various colors available
- Common on sinker and collated nails
Cement Coated
- Resin coating melts from friction heat
- Hardens after driving for better grip
- Increases holding power 20-30%
- Popular for box/crate nails
Paint/Powder Coated
- Matches siding and trim colors
- Provides corrosion protection
- Common in roofing nails
- White, brown, tan, green, etc.
Important: Pressure-Treated Lumber Compatibility
Always use hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel nails with pressure-treated lumber. The chemicals in treated wood rapidly corrode standard nails, causing premature failure and wood staining. Standard galvanized or coated nails will fail in 1-2 years in treated lumber.
Download Material Selection Guide
Complete guide to selecting nail materials for different environments
Material Selection GuideApplications & Selection Guide
Choosing the right nail for your project ensures proper performance and professional results.
Application-Specific Recommendations
Framing & Structural
Recommended: 16d common or sinker nails (3-1/2")
- Wall framing: 16d common/sinker every 16" o.c.
- Top/bottom plates: Two 16d nails at joints
- Studs to plates: Two 16d toe-nailed each side
- Sheathing: 8d common/sinker, 6" edges, 12" field
- Subflooring: 10d ring shank, 6" edges, 10" field
Roofing
Recommended: 1-1/4" to 2" galvanized roofing nails
- Asphalt shingles: 1-1/4" with large head, 4 per shingle
- Felt underlayment: 1" roofing nails with caps
- Wood shingles: 1-1/2" to 2" galvanized or stainless
- Metal roofing: Self-drilling screws with washers (not nails)
- Roof sheathing: 8d common or ring shank
Siding
Recommended: Ring shank siding nails, HDG or stainless
- Wood siding: 2" to 2-1/2" ring shank, HDG
- Fiber cement: 2" to 2-1/2" siding nails, hot-dip galvanized
- Lap siding: Nail 1" above bottom edge, 16" o.c.
- T&G siding: Blind nail through tongue
- Cedar/redwood: Stainless or aluminum to prevent staining
Interior Trim & Molding
Recommended: 4d to 8d finish nails or 18ga brads
- Baseboard: 6d or 8d finish nails
- Crown molding: 6d finish nails, angled into studs/joists
- Door/window casing: 6d casing or finish nails
- Quarter round: 4d finish or 1-1/4" brad nails
- Delicate trim: 18ga brad nails, 1" to 1-1/2"
Hardwood Flooring
Recommended: Flooring cleats or cut nails
- Tongue & groove: 2" flooring cleats, blind nailed
- Wide planks: Face nail with cut nails for appearance
- Nail angle: 45° through tongue
- Spacing: Every 8"-10" along length
- End joints: Within 1"-3" of board ends
Decking
Recommended: 3" ring shank, HDG or stainless
- Treated lumber: HDG or stainless only
- Spacing: Two nails per joist, 1" from edge
- Composite: Use manufacturer-specified fasteners
- Hardwoods (Ipe, etc.): Pre-drill and use stainless
- Fascia boards: 2-1/2" ring shank siding nails
Concrete & Masonry
Recommended: Hardened concrete nails or masonry nails
- Light duty: 1" to 1-1/2" hardened concrete nails
- Furring strips: 2-1/2" fluted masonry nails
- Driving: Wear safety glasses, use heavy hammer
- Alternative: Consider powder-actuated system
- Masonry block: Nail into mortar joints when possible
Fencing
Recommended: 2-1/2" to 3-1/2" ring shank, HDG
- Pickets: 2-1/2" ring shank into rails
- Rails to posts: 16d common or 3-1/2" ring shank
- Treated lumber: Hot-dip galvanized or stainless only
- Cedar fence: Stainless or aluminum prevents staining
- Metal fastening: Two nails per connection point
Installation Tips & Best Practices
Preventing Splits
- Use box nails instead of common nails
- Pre-drill hardwoods and near board ends
- Keep nails 3/4" from edges, 2" from ends
- Blunt nail point slightly to crush fibers
- Use smaller gauge nails in thin materials
Proper Driving Technique
- Hold nail perpendicular to surface
- Start with light taps to set nail
- Drive with firm, controlled strokes
- Avoid overdriving - damages wood
- For finish nails, set below surface with nail set
Maximizing Holding Power
- Drive nails at slight angle (dovetail)
- Alternate nail angles in each joint
- Use ring shank for maximum grip
- Ensure adequate penetration (2/3 minimum)
- Clinch nails for permanent connections
Common Nailing Mistakes to Avoid
- Under-penetration: Nail doesn't reach deep enough into second piece - weak connection
- Over-driving: Crushing wood fibers around nail reduces holding power by 30%
- Too close to edges: Nailing within 1/2" of edge causes splits
- Wrong material: Using bright nails exterior or with treated lumber causes rust and failure
- Undersized nails: Using 6d nails where 16d are needed creates weak connections
- Missing studs/joists: Nailing only into sheathing provides no holding power
Download Application Guide
Complete installation guide with nailing schedules for all applications
Application Guide Nailing Schedule ChartStill Have Questions About Your Project?
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