Roofing Screws & Nails
What are roofing screws & nails?
Roofing screws & nails are fasteners engineered to attach roof panels, shingles, trims, and accessories to wood or metal framing while sealing out water. Roofing screws commonly include an EPDM sealing washer and either a self-drilling or sharp point. Roofing nails are used for shingle and felt installation where high placement speed and wide head coverage are important.
Types of roofing screws & nails we offer
- Metal roofing screws (wood-to-metal) — sharp Type-17 or twin-lead threads for fastening steel or aluminum panels to wood purlins.
- Self-drilling roofing screws (metal-to-metal) — TEK drill points for fastening panels and trims to steel framing without pre-drilling.
- Pancake/low-profile head roofing screws — wide, thin heads for standing seam clips and concealed-fastener details.
- Hex washer head roofing screws — common exposed-fastener option with EPDM washer under the head for a weather-tight seal.
- Roofing nails — coil or loose nails for shingles, underlayments, and felt; wide heads for reliable hold-down.
Materials & finishes for roofing screws & nails
- Carbon steel with protective coatings — zinc, zinc-aluminum, ceramic, or polymer coatings for corrosion resistance.
- Stainless steel (304 / 18-8) — broad corrosion resistance for most environments.
- Stainless steel (316) — added resistance for coastal or chloride exposure.
- 410 stainless drill points (on select self-drillers) — hardened for drilling, paired with stainless shanks/heads where available.
- EPDM washers — UV-stable rubber that compresses to form a long-lasting weather seal under the head.
What size roofing screws do I need?
Match diameter, length, and point to your substrate. Common diameters are #9, #10, and #12. Choose length to fully penetrate the framing member (typical embedment 1" into wood, or through the first steel member for metal-to-metal). Use Type-17 or sharp points for wood and TEK drill points sized for the combined metal thickness in metal-to-metal connections.
Common applications for roofing screws & nails
- Attaching steel or aluminum roofing panels, trims, ridge caps, and closures
- Standing seam clip attachment (pancake/low-profile heads)
- Pole-barn, post-frame, and agricultural buildings
- Shingle, felt, and underlayment installation (roofing nails)
Why choose roofing screws & nails from us
- Weather-tight sealing — EPDM washers and matched head/washer geometry for reliable seals.
- Fast installation — self-drilling points and hex-washer heads drive quickly with standard drivers.
- Corrosion-resistant options — coated carbon steel and stainless grades for demanding environments.
- Style variety — exposed- and concealed-fastener solutions to match your panel system.
Installation tips for roofing screws & nails
- Set driver clutch to avoid over-compressing the EPDM washer; the washer should compress uniformly without bulging.
- Drive roofing screws perpendicular to the panel for a consistent seal.
- Use the correct drill point for metal thickness; pre-drill only when required by the panel or substrate.
- For exposed fasteners, place screws at crest locations when specified to minimize standing water around the washer.
- Roofing nails: follow shingle manufacturer patterns; seat nails flush with the surface—do not under- or over-drive.
Roofing screws & nails FAQs
See the accordion below for quick answers on sizing, head styles, washers, and best practices for long-lasting, leak-free installs.
Wood-to-metal (or wood-grip) uses sharp points for wood framing. Self-drilling (metal-to-metal) use TEK points that drill and tap through steel without pre-drilling.
Hex washer heads are the standard exposed-fastener choice with EPDM sealing washers. Pancake/low-profile heads are used for standing seam clips and concealed-fastener details where a thin, wide head is required.
EPDM is UV-stable and compresses to form a durable weather seal under the head. Correct compression prevents leaks without damaging the washer.
Larger diameters provide higher pull-out and shear capacity. Match the diameter to panel specs and substrate strength; #10 is common for many metal panels, #12 for heavier duty.
Long enough to penetrate the framing member (often ~1" into wood) or fully engage the first metal member in metal-to-metal joins. Avoid excessive length that risks protrusions where not desired.
Use coated carbon steel for general conditions. Choose 304 stainless for broad corrosion resistance and 316 stainless for coastal or chloride-rich environments.
Avoid dissimilar-metal corrosion. If mixing is unavoidable, isolate with sealants/washers and follow the panel manufacturer’s guidance.
Not for self-drillers sized to your thickness. Pre-drill only when required for alignment or by the panel manufacturer.