T-Nuts

Zinc Plated Steel Metric T-Nuts

What are T-Nuts?

T-nuts—also called tee nuts or blind nuts—are threaded inserts with a thin flange and prongs that bite into wood, particle board, plastic, or composite from the blind side. Once seated, they provide a strong, reusable machine-thread in soft materials while sitting flush with the surface.

Benefits of T-Nuts

Flush, clean finish: Flange seats below or level with the surface for snag-free furniture and fixtures.
High pull-out resistance: Prongs lock into the material to resist vibration and loosening.
Fast, repeatable assembly: Create durable machine threads in soft stock for easy service or swaps.
Cost-effective: Eliminates time-consuming inserts or through-bolting in many builds.

Common Applications for T-Nuts

Cabinetry, furniture, and woodworking jigs
Climbing walls, stage & exhibit builds, and sports equipment
Automotive interiors and light composite assemblies
Fixtures in MDF, plywood, and particle board

Materials & Finishes for T-Nuts

304 Stainless Steel: General outdoor/freshwater corrosion resistance.
316 Stainless Steel: Marine and highly corrosive environments.
Plain Steel: For dry, controlled interiors where finishing is handled elsewhere.
Zinc Plated Steel: Economical light-to-moderate corrosion protection.

How to Install T-Nuts (Quick Guide)

Drill a pilot hole sized for the barrel OD.
Insert the T-nut from the blind side with prongs facing the material.
Draw the flange flush by tightening the mating bolt from the show side; the prongs bite as the nut seats.
For hardwoods, lightly tap to start seating before tightening if needed.

Tip: Use a flat washer under the bolt head to protect the show surface while drawing the T-nut in.

Choosing the Right T-Nut Size

Match thread size and pitch to your fastener (e.g., 1/4"-20, 5/16"-18, M6, M8). Confirm the barrel length won’t break through the show face, and choose prong count (3-prong for harder woods, 4-prong for softer materials) for best bite and pull-out strength.

T-Nuts FAQ

Below are quick answers to the most common T-nut questions so you can choose and install with confidence.

Do you have to hammer T-nuts?

Not usually. Insert the T-nut and draw it in by tightening the mating bolt so the prongs bite. A light tap can help start seating in hardwoods.

What size hole should I drill for a T-nut?

Drill to the barrel’s outside diameter (manufacturer spec). The hole should be snug so the prongs engage and the flange seats flush.

3-prong vs 4-prong T-nuts, what’s the difference?

4-prong offers excellent bite in softer materials; 3-prong reduces splitting in harder woods and dense plywood.

Can T-nuts be removed and reused?

They’re semi-permanent. You can back them out, but repeated removal can damage fibers. For serviceable panels, consider cross dowels or threaded inserts.

Which material should I choose, 304 vs 316 stainless, zinc plated, or plain steel?

Use 316 for marine/harsh environments; 304 for general outdoor/freshwater; zinc plated for economical indoor use; plain steel only in dry, non-corrosive interiors.

How do I keep T-nuts from spinning out?

Make sure the pilot hole is correct, seat the prongs fully by drawing in with the bolt, and avoid overtightening that can crush fibers around the prongs.

What thread sizes are most common for T-nuts?

10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16 (imperial) and M5, M6, M8 (metric) are widely used. Match the nut thread to your bolt and application load.