Self Tapping, Expansion Anchors and More for Use with Masonry Materials
Masonry Anchors are used to attach fixtures to hollow walls, concrete or other masonry materials. There are many different kinds of anchors, each with different functions or methods used to anchor themselves to materials, most involve some form of expansion anchoring or threading the material being fastened into. Most notable are Masonry Anchors consisting of Wedge, Sleeve, and Concrete Screws.
The Types of Masonry Anchors & Screws
Masonry Anchors and Screws Transcript
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Bob: Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners - Fasteners 101. I'm Bob and today we're gonna talk about masonry fasteners. So let's get started.
So I have here a variety of masonry fasteners that I'm going to run through. I'm just going to work straight across the table here. This is this basically education for you of different types of fasteners that are used in masonry products.
The first one I have here is a masonry drop-in anchor this is mostly used in poured concrete. These are commonly installed for high strength applications. Where you're using a bolt to actually drive into the threaded drop-in. You can also get these in coil thread. So if you're a masonry contractor and you want to use coil threaded rod, which is a more coarse type thread, we have those also.
This tool is a set tool to set the drop-in anchor. I should also note that these drop-in anchors you can also get them with a lip on them. This particular one, it has no lip and the reason for the lip would be to prevent the drop-in anchor from dropping too far into the concrete. A lot of contractors like that type of a drop-in anchor.
Once you have the drop-in anchor in the hole, you put this tool (in), you hit it with a hammer and it sets it in position. Then you can drive in or put your bolt in; whatever you're fastening to the concrete.
The next masonry fastener; I have an anchor which is a lag screw anchor (lag shield). So this anchor this is almost the same as putting in drop-in. It's just another type of drop in. Once you have this in place in the concrete you then can screw in the lag screw and then you can see the anchor starts to spread on both sides. Basically, you're looking at pressure on the walls of the concrete hole.
Both of these fasteners require you drilling a hole that is equal to the circumference of the drop-in. So if this was a 1/2"" inch outside diameter you drill in a 1/2"" inch hole. Same thing with this drop-in, not the size of the bolt that you're going to put in there.
The next (anchor) I have are a masonry, or a term used: Tapcon, concrete screws. For fixing wood to a block wall, wood to a concrete floor, metal, whatever you want to fasten. Angles, metal steel angles, many different applications. These are the probably the most used masonry anchor out there. You can get these in hex head and Phillips. I'm showing you Phillips head, Phillips flat head. Obviously if you use a Phillips flat head you can countersink these into the the wood so that the head doesn't stick up if you have that type of application. These are the most used masonry anchors on the market.
Next I have what they call a threaded rod Sammy (Sammys screw). Sammy's are used for overhead application typically. You would put these, drill a hole in your deck above, you would drive this in with a driver: a nut driver or a socket into the concrete and then you would put a piece of threaded rod in here and it would hang down. You cut the threaded rod to the size that you're trying to hang to and that would be the use of a sammys. Sammy is a brand name out there but there are many other companies that make this product.
The next we have is a hammer driver pin. This is mostly used (as I've seen these used) for fastening plywood to a concrete floor. If you have a basement you want the wood flooring down, you want to put a sub-floor down, well you can use this anchor for that purpose. How this anchor works is that you would drill a hole to the size of this anchor diameter and then right through the wood to the concrete, drop this until it's flush to the plywood and then hammer down the nail, that nail becomes flush with the top, and you're done. It's anchored to the concrete. It's a very quick way to fasten plywood to many different surfaces, to walls, many other things. It's a very handy anchor.
The next one I have is a toggle wing for hollow wall. If you know you have a hollow block wall and the block is not filled with concrete, you can use one of these in a hollow wall. These are also widely used in dry wall. Hanging different products, this is not a heavyweight anchor. I would not use this to hang your TV off a drywall wall. If you have a flat screen TV that weighs, you know, I'm just gonna use a number, 60 pounds or 70 pounds this is not the proper anchor for that. It'll probably just rip the drywall right off the wall. And that has a combo Phillips (Slotted) head so you can use a flat screwdriver or a Phillips screwdriver to drive that in.
The next one I have is a double expansion shield. This is made for brick and block. I think mostly this is used in brick. How this works is you put the screw in. When you drive the screw in it starts to pull on the two ends and then you could see there it expands and it'll only expand so much. The reason why they use these in brick and block is not to crack the brick. A lot of times if you use a wedge anchor or a sleeve anchor the brick will crack and the end result is you don't have a good holding anchor. So possibly the anchor could pull out depending on what you're hanging on the substrate. You can see how that works. To give you an idea, if you have a brick wall in your house and you want to hang something from it, this is a good anchor to use for that.
The next (masonry anchor) I have here is a sleeve anchor. This one has a nut. There are different varieties of sleeve anchors. These are just the parts separating the different parts to a sleeve anchor this is the complete one. So this would just slide on to here and it's put back on. All right, that's how it goes together. This application also is made for brick or block and can be used in concrete. It is not as strong as using a wedge anchor. So the strength of this is for lightweight, not heavyweight, materials.
This here is another sleeve anchor. This here is a combo head. You have basically a Phillips or a flathead screwdriver you can drive this in and this is basically countersunk so if you have a piece of wood that you're fastening something to a concrete surface this will be flat on the surface versus having a sleeve anchor with a nut on the top protruding on the top of the
wood or metal or whatever you are fastening.
And the last one that I have here is what we call a wedge anchor. This is also a very highly used anchor out there. Basically you drill a hole in the concrete to the circumference of the wedge anchor. If it's 1/4"" inch you drill a 1/4"" inch hole, if it's 3/8"" you drill a 3/8"" hole. How this works is when you drill the hole in the concrete and you lock down on this nut, it starts to pull up this wedge here, that goes around the bottom diameter, starts to wedge in to this end, and then it tightens up and it doesn't pull out. This is the strongest concrete anchor to be used. As far as pullout goes and that's our demonstration of wedge anchors, different hollow wall anchors for masonry product.
What are Lag Shield Anchors?
Lag Shield Anchors Transcript
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Bob: Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners - Fasteners 101. I'm Bob, today I'm going to talk about installing a lag screw in concrete with a lag shield. So let's get started.
So I have here a lag shield which is made for concrete. We've gotten many requests about how to install a lag screw into concrete. So it's pretty simple you would have to have a lag shield. In this case, this is a 3/8"" lag bolt or lag screw and here is a lag shield, which is made for concrete. For the lag shield, you would drill a hole the size of the diameter of the lag shield. In this case
for a 3/8"" and if you're using a lag shield for 3/8"" so it would be 5/8"" outside diameter.
You would drill a hole in the concrete for the length of, 5/8"" (diameter) by the length of the lag shield and just a little bit more than that and then you would hammer in the lag shield into the concrete. How this works is you'll see I'll take this apart. It's two pieces that comes apart. OK, there are these two clips on here that go into the top area here.
I'm gonna put it back together and I put it back together and then after you put it in the concrete and you put the lag screw in, you'll start to see, once you start to screw it in, you'll see the bottom part start to spread. That's how it locks into the concrete.
If you're taking a 2x4 or a piece of plywood or whatever you're fastening to the concrete, that's the product you would use for doing that.
This lag shield, when you put it into concrete, the top of it should be flush with the top of the concrete. So you'll take a hammer, you'll hammer it into place, and that'll finish off at the top of the concrete and then if you're having a piece of 2x4 and Plus whatever length you want to go into the lag shield, so for instance if you had a 2x4 it would be an inch and a half plus the amount of area you're
going to screw into the lag shield shield which would be about another inch to inch and a half so you use a three inch lag screw and you would just fasten it down. Torque it down and it would stay perfect in there forever depending on your environment that you're installing this in.
These are zinc products. There are lag shields that are available in stainless also for high corrosion areas and you can find those on our website
Thanks for watching.
Concrete Sleeve Anchors
Masonry Sleeve Anchors are used for Hollow Concrete Masonry units such as concrete or cinder blocks. Concrete sleeve anchors consist of a threaded stud with an outwardly flared cone-shaped end, with a nut and a washer on the end. Tightening of the nut pulls the stud end into the expander sleeve, wedging it outwards and locking the anchor into the base material. Concrete Sleeve Anchors are used to anchor and secure material and equipment to concrete masonry surfaces. Sleeve anchors are inserted into pre-drilled holes and then they can be expanded for a secure fit, anchoring objects to the concrete, brick, or block.
Concrete Sleeve anchors work on the true expansion principle: turning the nut on the sleeve anchor pulls the working end of the anchor up through the sleeve, expanding the anchor and causing the anchor to secure itself to the material.
Double Expansion Masonry Anchors
Concrete Anchors for Masonry Screws or Bolts
This anchor consists of four parts-- a two-piece tubular shield, a hollow, wedge-shaped cone and a wedge-shaped nut-- brought together into a single anchor unit. The shields are connected by a pair of spring bands. At one end is the nut and at the other the cone, each designed so as to not turn during expansion.
Used in soft masonry with machine screws or machine bolts which are exposed to vibration or side pressure. As the anchor sets, the opposite ends pull towards each other causing the elongation of the anchor body. It doesn't fracture and allows for a fastening of any length. Can also be used in harder materials, including stone, brick, concrete or block.
Framing Connectors | Deck Anchors
Framing Connectors for Decking & Wood Applications
Framing Connector Anchors are used to secure wood posts to concrete footings, wood footings, or the beams they support. They form the foundations of most decks, alongside joist hangers, by positioning and installing wood posts and wood beams together. Proudly made in the USA.
Framing connector anchor is a broad term, coming in many varieties including post bases, half bases, post caps, hurricane ties, and many more.
Not recommended for fence posts or other unrestrained (not fixed or fastened at top) applications. These anchors are not designed to resist overturning (moment) loads.
Hurricane Clips | Rafter & Hurricane Ties
Framing Connectors for Lumber including Rafters, Trusses, and Joists
Hurricane Ties, also known as rafter or truss ties, are used for deck or roof framing to secure rafters, trusses, or joists to the wood framework. This is done to resist uplift and lateral forces, such as those that come from a hurricane or severe storm.
Hurricane ties come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but are functionally nearly identical. They all secure rafters, trusses, or joists to the top plates of the wood framework. The differences lie in how they attach.
Also refered to as: Rafter Ties and Deck Ties
Caution: Do not install Hurricane ties into both sides of a given truss, rafter, or joist. Doing so may cause damages in the wood and risks collision of the nails. Instead, install them diagonally across from each other.
Machine Screw Anchors
Masonry Anchors for use with Machine Screws and Bolts
Machine Scew Anchors are used with machine screws or bolts to anchor fictures to concrete or masonry materials. Like many concrete anchors, machine screw anchors are installed into pre-drilled holes in masonry materials and set using a special tool. As the screw is tightened, it pulls up a wedge at the bottom of the anchor, which expands the sleeve to fit snugly in the pre-drilled hole. Machine screw anchors are safe for concrete, brick, or block and fill uneven or irregular spots in the hole. The screws or bolts can be removed from the anchor and reinstalled later, without sacrificing the anchor's holding power.
Self Drilling Drywall Anchors
Time Saving Anchors in Plastic or Zinc Designed for Anchoring to Drywall
When anchoring to walls, you can't always screw into a stud. In this scenario you would have to use a drywall anchor, which expands behind each board of drywall, gypsum board or sheetrock, to prevent pullout of a screw and keep pictures, curtain rods, mirrors or other light duty materials hanging up on the wall.
Standard drywall anchors require a multi-step process of drilling a hole, hammering in a plastic anchor, and then using a sheet metal screw to anchor the hardware or material to the wall. Self Drilling Drywall Anchors eliminate the first and second step, as the feature a self drilling point and deep cutting threads to allow for one step installation using a standard cordless drill, which saves time and frustration. Drywall anchors in this selection feature a #2 Phillips drive for installation that can also be utilized to remove the anchor if needed.
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