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Nuts are mechanical fasteners that are usually used in tandem with a bolt. While there are several different types of nuts, they all accomplish the same basic goal - to clamp two or more components together in an assembly. Nuts and bolts have existed since the 1400s, however, it wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution and the advent of machine tools in the late 18th and early 19th centuries did their use become common. The standardization of threads in nuts and bolts in the 1840s led to an explosion of new technologies and products. Today, nuts are used seemingly everywhere and while often overlooked, provide numerous benefits to society at large. This article will provide a comprehensive guide to all things nuts - from what they are and how they work to the several different types of nuts.
A nut is a type of mechanical fastener with a threaded hole. The threads on the interior hole of the nut are intended to mate with the external threads of a bolt, screw, or stud. When mated together, the bolt and nut secure two or more components of an assembly together. The exterior profile of a nut is typically made either hexagonal or square - enabling the installation or removal of a nut possible by a wrench, socket, or nut driver. However, some nuts such as wing nuts, are specifically made so they are tightened or loosened by hand.
Nuts work by the clamping force that is created when the male threads of a bolt and the female threads of a nut engage together. The clamping force (also called pretension or bolt preload), is created due to the contact between the helical threads of the nut and bolt and effectively elongates the bolt. As a bolt and nut are tightened, an axial force or tension is created in the bolt while the components being assembled together experience compression.
The tension created in the bolt causes its threads to push up against the threads of the nut, causing a large amount of friction that prevents the bolt from unscrewing. Typically, larger nuts have a higher clamping force between the assembled components but also require more tightening to achieve a strong joint. If the amount of clamping force generated in a joint is specified, the use of a torque wrench is generally warranted to prevent under and overtightening.
Thread-locking adhesive can also be applied to further strengthen the joint. Once a sufficient amount of bolt preload has been applied by hand, wrench, or other tool, the components in the connection are effectively assembled together.
Nuts 101 Overview With Demonstrations (Extended) | Fasteners 101
Nuts are a foundation for the interchangeable parts used in all types of machinery today. As technology has become more advanced, different types of nuts have been developed to satisfy different requirements. The extensive list below includes a detailed description of 25 different types of nuts.
Nuts in most varieties are available in both SAE and Metric.
These are our most popular style of Acorn cap nuts. Acorn cap nuts are a type of nut that appears like a standard hex nut but one end of the hole in the nut is capped with a dome.
This type of nut is ideal when the aesthetic, finished look of a joint is wanted. The acorn hex cap nut also provides protection to the external threads of the male fastener from damage and environmental degradation.
Acorn nuts are easily installed and removed by a hand wrench or by hand. These nuts are often called acorn nuts, cap nuts, or dome nuts. We offer acorn nuts in sizes from #4-40 to ¾”-10.
These nuts are available in a variety of different materials such as 304, 316, A2 stainless steel, nickel-plated steel, chrome-plated steel, and brass.
Extra tall acorn nuts are typical acorn nuts, but with a taller dome to accommodate a larger stick out from the male fastener. Extra tall acorn nuts are available in rounded dome top and flat top designs. Both types are internally threaded. These are used when aesthetics are a concern and a finished look is desired.
The sizes and materials of our offerings range from as small as ⅜”-16 to as large as ½”-13 but in various lengths which provide the user with a few different options, unlike standard acorn nuts. These are only available in 18-8 stainless steel.
High crown cap nuts, our second most popular type of acorn nut is considered an intermediary between typical acorn cap nuts and extra tall acorn nuts. The crown in a high crown cap nut is higher than the standard acorn nut but shorter than the extra tall acorn nut.
The crown or dome in this type of nut is internally threaded. This is usually used when an aesthetic and a finished look are required. Sizes range as small as #10-24 to as large as ½”-13. At the moment, we only offer this type of nut in 18-8 stainless steel.
All extra tall cap nuts from Albany County Fasteners are proudly Made in the USA.
Extra tall flat cap nuts can be considered nearly identical to extra tall acorn nuts. The only difference is that this type of nut has a flat cap rather than a dome.
This type of nut is ideal when both aesthetics and corrosion mitigation are critical to a design. We offer this type of nut in sizes starting at ⅜”-16 to ½”-13 and in a variety of different lengths. This gives the user a few different options vs the standard acorn nut and high crown nuts that come in one standard length. Extra tall flat cap nuts are only available in 18-8 stainless steel.
Extra Tall Flat Cap Nuts Video
All extra tall cap nuts from Albany County Fasteners are proudly Made in the USA.
A castle nut (also called a castellated nut), gets its name due to its resemblance to the parapets of a medieval castle. Castle nuts are used in low-torque applications. To use a castle nut, the nut is threaded onto the male fastening member like a typical hex nut. Then, a hole slightly larger than the size of the cotter pin being used is drilled through the threaded shaft of the male fastener. Afterward, a cotter pin or safety wire is inserted through the slots of the castle nut, into the drilled hole in the bolt, and then bent to secure the nut and bolt together. We offer castle nuts in both 304 stainless steel and brass.
Coupling nuts, as the name implies, are nuts used to join male fasteners together. Coupling nuts are also sometimes referred to as extension nuts, hex standoffs, or long nuts. Most commonly utilized to join threaded rods together, coupling nuts are installed similarly to a standard hex nut and appear like long hex nuts with a threaded hole. Coupling nuts can only join fasteners of the same size and are often used to create extensive rod assemblies out of shorter threaded rods. We offer coupling nuts in 304 and 316 stainless steel, hot dip galvanized steel, zinc-plated steel, and aluminum.
They are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel, 316 Stainless Steel, Zinc Plated Steel, Hot Dip Galvanized Steel and Aluminum.
Coupling reducer nuts are similar to standard coupling nuts but are used to combine male threaded fasteners of different sizes. Otherwise, their function and purpose are the same as regular coupling nuts.
Coupling reducer nuts are installed similarly to a standard hex nut and are used to make longer rod assemblies out of short threaded rods. We only offer coupling reducer nuts in zinc-plated steel.
A hex flange nut is a special type of hex nut that is fabricated with a wide flanged portion. This flange acts as an integrated washer that helps to spread the load experienced by the nut to a larger surface area. By doing so, damage to the assembled components can be prevented. Hex flange nuts are typically used with softer assembled components.
There are two types of hex flange nuts - serrated flange nuts and non-serrated flange nuts. The serrated face of the flange on a serrated flange nut is an added feature that helps to create a locking effect by “biting” into the assembled component. This helps prevent the nut from loosening in applications where vibration is an issue. Non-serrated flange nuts are used to either speed up production or distribute a load over a larger surface area.
Serrated hex flange nuts are offered in 304, 316, and A2 stainless steel and zinc-plated steel.
Non-serrated flange nuts are offered in 304 stainless steel, 316 stainless steel, A2 stainless steel, zinc-plated steel grade A, and zinc-plated steel grade C.
Hex jam nuts are nearly identical to standard hex nuts with the only difference between the two being the thickness of hex jam nuts. Jam nuts, also known as thin nuts, are about ⅔ the thickness of a standard hex nut and are used as a type of lock nut.
Hex jam nuts are often used in conjunction with another nut to lock its position when the second nut is not clamped against another component. For instance, hex jam nuts, when used with a standard nut, can secure an item onto a fastener without applying force to the item itself. This is accomplished is by first tightening a standard nut to the component that is to be assembled. Then, the hex jam nut is tightened on top of the first nut. The first nut is then loosened and tightened against the second nut. This locking mechanism helps prevent both axial movement and impression in the assembled components but allows the assembled components (such as a bearing) to still rotate.
Alternatively, hex jam nuts can also be used in place of a standard hex nut where a standard nut would not fit. We offer hex jam nuts in a variety of materials, including 18-8, 316, and A2 stainless steel, zinc-plated steel, brass, and silicon bronze.
The standard hex nut is the most commonly used type of nut. It has a hexagonal exterior body and comes in many different sizes to accommodate different-sized bolts. The exterior hexagonal body of a hex nut means it can be installed with a standard wrench or socket, torque wrench, or nut driver.
We offer hot dip galvanized standard hex nuts with either fine (UNF) or coarse (UNC) threads in sizes as small as ¼”-20 to as large as 3”-4. Because of the finishing process used for these nuts, it is recommended only hot dip galvanized male fasteners are used. This is because using dissimilar metals in a joint will cause corrosion and compromise the strength of the joint.
Hex nuts are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel, 316 Stainless Steel, Zinc Plated Steel, Plain Alloy Steel, Silicon Bronze, Hot Dip Galvanized Steel, Brass, Aluminum, Chrome Plated Steel and Black Chrome Plated Steel.
A keps k-lock nut is a special type of lock nut that features an attached, free-spinning internal tooth or external tooth lock washer. By combining the features of a standard hex nut and a lock washer, the assembly of components is made much easier. The attached washer is either an internal or external tooth lock washer that has a conical shape with “teeth” that bite into the surface of the assembled component. This effectively limits the ability of the nut to loosen.
We offer these type of nuts in 304 and A2 stainless steel and zinc-plated steel.
Knurled thumb nuts, or simply thumb nuts, are decorative circular nuts that feature an exterior knurled surface. This knurled surface allows the nut to easily be installed or removed by hand. These nuts are often used for decorative and aesthetic purposes and in applications where items are temporarily fastened or frequently adjusted.
Knurled thumb nuts are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel and Brass.
A machine screw nut is a type of nut used with machine screws. Machine screw nuts do not differ much from a standard hex nut except that machine screw nuts are typically smaller. Machine screw nuts are often used if the screw protrudes out the other end of a threaded hole, and if the hole is not tapped or previously threaded.
Machine screw nuts are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel, 316 Stainless Steel, Brass, Zinc Plated Steel, Black Oxide Stainless Steel, Silicon Bronze and Plain Alloy Steel.
Small pattern hex machine screw nuts are the same as standard machine screw nuts except that the small machine screw nuts are typically used in applications where space is very confined. These nuts have a smaller wrench size/across the flat dimensions than regular machine screw nuts.
Small pattern machine screw nuts are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel and Zinc Plated Steel.
These nuts are similar to stover nuts but have an integrated non-serrated and non-spinning flange that fulfills the same function as a washer. This simplifies the installation and assembly of components due to the dual purpose of fastening and spreading forces along a larger surface area. Like the stover nut, the threads in the non-serrated hex flange cone locking nut are distorted - leading to added resistance against loosening due to shock and vibration. These nuts are only offered in plain steel.
Nylon insert lock nuts feature a standard hex shape and are internally threaded but include a nylon insert on the top of the nut. This nylon insert helps to limit loosening due to vibration and cross-threading.
As these types of nuts are assembled to the male fastener, the nylon insert elastically deforms over the shape of the external threads of the bolt or screw. The locking mechanism of these types of nuts is made possible by two factors. Firstly, the nylon insert forces the screw threads against the nut threads. Secondly, the nylon insert compresses against the screw itself during assembly.
Nylon insert lock nuts are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel, 316 Stainless Steel, Zinc Plated Steel, Brass, Aluminum, Chrome Plated Steel and Black Chrome Plated Steel.
Projection hex weld nuts are nuts that provided threaded holes to materials that are too thin to be tapped or materials that can only be accessed from one side to be assembled into different components. These types of nuts are often spot welded to another object and then used with screws to assemble components together. Features protruding from the main body of the nut are called projections. These nuts are offered in short and long-projection options. The short or long projection describes the length of the projection on the end of the nut where you would weld the nut to the material. The presence of these projections is staggered around the body of the nut and melts into the host material when the nut is welded.
The more projections there are, the stronger the bond between the nut and the host material when welded. We offer short 3 projections, 3 long projections, 6 short projections, and 6 long projection hex weld nuts in plain steel.
Shear nuts, or tamper proof security nuts, are a special type of nut used to create a permanent joint that cannot be tampered with. These nuts have a conical shape with coarse threads that are topped with a threadless standard hex shape.
Male fasteners are mated with the shear nut from the conical side. When the fastener is tightened sufficiently with a wrench or socket, the threadless hex shape is sheared off from the nut - effectively preventing the nut from being loosened.
These types of nuts are often used in hospitals, correctional facilities, schools, road signs, and other public places where unwanted removal is desired. We offer shear nuts in 304 stainless steel and Zamak 5 zinc alloy.
Shear nuts are available in Zinc Alloy and 18-8 Stainless Steel.
Installing Breakaway Shear Nuts Video
Removing Breakaway Shear Nuts Video
Slotted hex nuts are hex nuts that feature slots along the top of their body and appear similar to castle nuts. Their function is also similar to castle nuts. Slotted hex nuts are fastened onto the male fastener. Then, holes are drilled into the male fastener. A cotter pin or safety wire is then inserted into the slot of the nut, through the drilled hole, and then bent to secure the nut in place. The main difference between slotted hex nuts and castle nuts is that slotted hex nuts have a lower profile.
Slotted nuts are available in Plain Steel.
Square nuts are 4-sided nuts that have greater surface area contact with the assembled components compared to standard hex nuts. As a result, square nuts have greater resistance to loosening, but also have greater resistance to tightening.
Square nuts are often used in tandem with square-headed bolts and flat washers. Square nuts are offered in 304 and 316 stainless steel, zinc-plated steel, and hot dip galvanized steel.
Prevailing torque lock nuts (commonly known as stover lock nuts) have a rounded top and a flat bottom. The threads near the top are intentionally imperfect to add shock and vibration resistance. Stover nuts are wax treated to prevent galling from occurring during the installation.
Stover nuts are available in Zinc Plated Steel.
T-nuts, also called tee nuts, barrel nuts, or blind nuts, are often used in softer materials like wood, plastics, and composites. Aptly named T-nuts due to their resemblance to the letter T, these nuts feature an internally threaded bore with a flange containing protruding prongs that dig into the surface of the assembled component when mated with a male fastener.
T-nuts often provide a more secure connection than wood screws alone. The prongs of the T-nut make the joint unlikely to loosen. Most T-nuts come with either 3 or 4 prongs. Because the prongs are what dig into the material not the body of the nut, the material is less likely to split or crack. These nuts are often used in furniture due to their ability to be flush with the material from the nut side and their ease of installation and removal..
These nuts are offered in 304 and 316 stainless steel and zinc-plated steel.
Tri-groove security nuts are similar to shear nuts (tamper proof security nuts). These are also known as trident nuts. The main difference between tri-groove security nuts and shear nuts is that tri-groove nuts do not have a hex-shaped feature that is sheared off when assembled with male members.
Tri-groove security nuts, like shear nuts, have a tapered outer surface making them resistant to gripping devices like wrenches or pliers. A special type of socket called a tri-groove socket is needed to install this nut. These nuts are available in 316 stainless steel and zinc alloy.
Installing Tri-Groove Nuts Video
Two-way reversible lock nuts, also called centerlock nuts, have a distorted thread in the center of their interior threads - allowing them to be used either top-up or top-down. The distorted threads create resistance between the male threads and the threads of the nut - effectively reducing the likelihood of the joint loosening. These nuts are offered in 18-8 and 316 stainless steel and zinc-plated steel.
Two way reversible lock nuts are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel, 316 Stainless Steel and Zinc Plated Steel.
Well Nuts are removable rivet nuts made mostly out of EPDM rubber with a brass threaded portion on the inside. They are extremely common in kayaks and other water-based applications to install something to the surface where leaking water may be a concern. Although they are also commonly referred to as Rawlnuts or Rawl Nuts, this is a proprietary name. Well nuts are mostly made from rubber with a brass internal threaded nut making them an ideal choice for fresh water and salt water environments.
Well nuts can also prevent Galvanic Corrosion by acting as a buffer and prevent loosening by absorving some of the shock associated with certain installations. Consequently, these nuts are often used in watercraft such as kayaks but are also found in automotive racking systems, compressors, and engines.
Wing nuts are a special type of nut that have two protruding wings that enable easy installation and removal by hand. Like with knurled thumb nuts, wing nuts are commonly used in applications where a joint is not permanent and is adjusted frequently. Wing nuts can also have flanged bodies which allow them to have greater surface area contact with the assembled component.
Wing nuts are offered in 304, 316, and A2 stainless steel, zinc-plated steel, and brass.
Wing nuts are available in 18-8 Stainless Steel, 316 Stainless Steel, Brass, Zinc Plated Steel and Zinc Alloy.
All About Cap Nuts: High Crown, Too Tall, & Standard Nuts
All About Cap Nuts Transcript
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Bob: Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners, Fasteners 101. I'm Bob and today we're going to discuss high crown and too tall cap nuts. So let's get started.
I have cap nuts here. I have a standard cap nut that you'll find almost anywhere. I have what they call a high crown and you can see, the crown's a little higher. It's probably somewhere about, I would say about, a heavy 3/8 of an inch taller than a standard cap nut. Then we have too tall. We have a too tall in a flat head and we have too tall in a rounded head.
Now the two tall come fully threaded all the way through the inside to the top. So you have full threads all the way through. You have on the too tall what they call a flat top. You can see the top is flat and it has a chamfered edge around it and on the round the top is just rounded over like the standard cap nut at the top.
They call these too tool because they're approximately, if you took the high crowns, double the height almost. But if you had two high crowns, I don't have two high crowns here but if I did, it would be close to this size and that's why they call it a too tall.
These are USA made products, they're made here in the USA. They're quality products. These are 18-8 stainless steel. They're available on our shelf ready to ship.
The question always comes up "what do I use for different things"? Depends on your application. So many different applications out there. How far is your threaded bolt sticking out on the other end? If it was sticking out that much, you couldn't use a standard cap nut. You're going to see probably about a 1/4" - 3/8" of an inch sticking out. If that was the application. So, then you would go to the high crown.
I'll just keep my finger there as a stop, and that just makes it. Those are the different applications. This one, which is double tall, will keep on going and, just so you know, you will get some gulling because the difference here with stainless steel is that you have a rolled thread on the bolt and on the actual cap nut you have cut threads. So you have two different threads running against each other which creates gulling. You can use some lubricant. That works well.
I just want to show you on this how far this will go in. So you're looking at a good 1-1/2" of this 2" bolt, that I have here. It'll go all the way in to this cap nut and there it is.
As far as applications go, there are many different applications. I've seen these used for - they get polished up - some people will take them and polish them up. Polished stainless is amazing - the way it looks. They'll take them and put them on their trucks and their cars just for the look. It's all dependent on application.
Here at my packaging machine, I want to demonstrate to you how they incorporated a cap nut. This is a standard cap nut. This is the bowl where the fasteners go in. This is a feeder and they used a cap nut, at the top, along with a lock washer to hold this cone in place so the fasteners don't build up and around the center of the machine. Here they used a standard cap nut with a lock washer to hold this cone in place.
You could also, in this application, use any of them. Here's a high crown, that works on there, and here's a double tall. You can use that on there. This is actually a lot easier because sometimes the small little fasteners that we put in this machine, they get underneath this cone a little bit. They jam under there and you have to take this off. That's why they make it so you can screw it off with your fingers. I just used the top round one.
That's pretty cool looking, but functionally it doesn't matter. The standard that comes with the machine, you can see here, the standard cap nut, finishes it off nice. Nothing can build on top during fastener jobs.
Little fasteners, like a two point five millimeter falling on top won't stay on top of this nut. It just falls off and that's just the design. I just wanted to show you on my packaging machine how that could be applied.
How to Use Hex Jam Nuts
Using Jam Nuts Transcript
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Bob: This is what they call a jam nut. Jam nuts are about half the size of a regular finish nut in height. Otherwise the circumference and everything else is the same; they use the same wrench to apply the nut and to remove the nut.
Jam nuts, just to give you an idea what these do, you use two nuts together and then you tighten them up against each other. That's why they call them jam nuts: you use them together, you tighten them up, and I'll show you. I'll do a demonstration of that also, but typically that's how they're used. They're also used in tight areas where you can't have a full-size nut.
So I'm going to demonstrate the installation of the jam nuts that I have here. I have two of them. Jam nuts are also called thin nuts. The difference is that they're about half the size of a regular nut. You can see that here.
I'm going to put the first one on and then I'm going to put the second one on. I'm going to use an adjustable wrench to grab the bottom nut. Then I'm going to use the ratchet on the top to tighten it up.
Now I'm tightening them up against each other. That's one of the reasons why they call them jam nuts. Jam nuts are also available in nylon lock nuts where you don't have to use this situation. Obviously jam nuts can be used in many different applications such as if you have a tight area like in a car application where you don't have the room to use a regular sized nut. They'll use jam nuts or a single jam nut to get on the back of an alternator for a bracket; something along those lines. They also use the nylons in that situation.
So there's many different situations that you can use this in. They also sometimes want to put a jam nut like this to wherever it's keeping in place. They want this whole mechanism to be able to turn and move because they might be a moving arm on this bolt holding it in place. They also are used with shoulder bolts. So you'll find jam nuts used with shoulder bolts a lot on mechanical equipment. However you should know that if this is being used in a vibrating machine or something along those lines, these do have a tendency to loosen apart.
So if you want them to stay use some Loctite or some other locking product to keep them in place like they are here. And that's it.
How to Install Breakaway Shear Security Nuts | Fasteners 101
How to Install Breakaway Shear Security Nuts Transcript
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Bob: Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners - Fasteners 101. I'm Bob and today I'm going to demonstrate to you a breakaway security nut.
So, I have here a breakaway security nut. Basically, it has a nut welded or it’s an integral part, not even welded, of the process when they made this. There is a weak point right here at the neck. As pressure gets put on the nut sides to tighten it, that will break away from the security cone nut.
Now this is almost the same thing as a tri-groove nut but doesn't have the tri-grooves in it to be able to remove this nut down the road. There'll be only one way to remove this nut. You're going to have to take an abrasive and you have to cut the ends or put some type of groove in it that you can get a flat head screwdriver in it or a vise grip around it.
So I’m going to demonstrate this now - the installation - and how it breaks away. We're going to put a carriage bolt in here. I'm going to hand-turn this on, like that. I'm gonna snug it up. Now, this is for demonstration purposes.
These particular breakaway nuts are used a lot in street signs. So, go out in the street, look at the signs you'll find them there. They come in stainless steel. They also come in zinc. I don't know if they come in hot dipped galvanized; not sure about that. But check our site. If they're available, we have them up there.
I have this snug right now on this piece of steel and I'm going to start to tighten it. Once it reaches to a certain pressure it's going to break and you're going to watch that happen right here. Okay I'm just going to turn it and it's tightening, and the other side is turning on me so I'm going to hold it and now it's gonna pop off. And that's what you have when you're all said and done.
This is the nut (hex) part that snapped off. Now you're not going to get this off. Unless you use a grinder with an abrasive and you cut grooves in it and then take it off with a wrench. So it's a process.
Thanks for watching.
How to Remove Breakaway Shear Security Nuts | Fasteners 101
How to Remove Breakaway Shear Security Nuts Transcripts
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Bob: Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners - Fasteners 101. I'm Bob and today I'm going to demonstrate to you how to remove a security nut. So, let's get started.
I have my cordless grinder with an abrasive wheel on it and I'm going to cut a groove on this side and the other side, so I can get a wrench onto this security nut that's made so you can't get anything on it.
No matter what you do, you can't grip it, so we have to create something to grip it. So, we're going to cut the edge there a little bit to flatten it out and see how we do. Here we go.
I did one side over here. I'm gonna do the other side now. Make sure you wear protection. You must have eye protection.
As you can see there, it's cut so we can get a wrench on it. That only took me about a minute - minute and a half. I'm going to stick a vise grips on it and we're going to turn it. There it is. I've taken it off. Took me a couple of minutes just to get it off.
That's how you would remove a security nut without any groove to use the tool on it. Thanks for watching.
How to Install & Remove TriGroove Tamper Proof Nuts
Tri-Groove Nut Installation & Removal Transcript
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Bob: This one I have, this is called a tri groove nut. It has three grooves on it: one, two, three. There's three grooves on here. This is a security nut. This is to prevent anybody from trying to put a wrench on it. It's very hard to put a wrench on this nut.
You could probably put a vice grip on it and it'll hold it and you'll get it off but it's really a deterrent for anybody walking by who wants to try and take something. That's what it's mainly used for and it takes a special socket that goes over this nut and locks into those three grooves to be able to tighten it on.
Now I'm going to demonstrate the installation of a tri-groove nut. This is a security nut so if you want to keep something secure, such as the television, or whatever it may be from anybody removing it.
Tri-groove nuts have these three grooves and you need a special tool or socket to install it. You see they have those three grooves in it. So I'm going to demonstrate this right now, an installation of it.
I'm putting it through my 3/8 steel here. I'm going to screw it on so it snugs up and I'm going to tighten it up with this special tool. I need an adjustable on the other side. There we go.
Bear with me a minute...there we go. So I'm going to wedge it against the vice so I don't have to hold two hands. With these you can only do so much torqueing with it cause otherwise it wants to skip out.
Ok, that's the installation of a tri-groove nut. You can't put anything on this to take it off. It's all round. You have to have this tool to take it off. That's what's key to this nut. You can put this where you can't get to the head.
There are installations where you won't be able to access the head so you can't put anything on it. If you can then you would use a security screw with another type of security fastener or wrench to put it in place like a Torx with a pin in the center or something along those lines.
They also have tri-groove bolts that are available. I'm not sure if we have them on our website yet but they are available. You can't take a wrench like this and take it off because what happens is, it's been designed to where you just slide.
Now let's try the ultimate way to get this off: this is a vice grip. So if anything was going to take it off, it's going to be this. So let's see if we can do it. I haven't tried this but I'm gonna give it a shot. I'm trying to grab it on the top ridge of it and I'm gonna try and lock the vise grip; see if it holds.
Nah, see what happens once I apply pressure to it? It starts to slide off. So let's see if I can get it this way...no. There's not enough lip on the top to be able to use the vise grip to grab it. Even this way I can't grab it. So there's basically no way to get this off unless you have the tool. It's too smooth, there's nothing for the vice grip to grab. This is the tool, if you're going to use anything, to get this off.
You need the right tool, which is this: socket with the tri-grooves in the socket, and that would take it off and put it on. I'm going to take it off now. As you can see, you have the right tool...you can remove it.
And that's my demonstration of a tri-groove security nut.
How Do Well Nuts Work: Well Nuts | Review & Installation | Fasteners 101 Demo
Well Nuts | Review & Installation Transcript
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Bob: Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners - Fasteners 101. I'm Bob and today I'm gonna show you how to install a well nut. So, let's get started.
I have here a well nut. They fall under the category of rivet nuts also. This is an EPDM neoprene nut and inside it has a brass threaded insert. So this works well in many different applications. We'll go through those applications, right after I give you the demonstration on installing this.
I'll use this as my material that I'm attaching. Now you can attach multiple materials together with this nut and I have here a 1/4"-20 pan head machine screw with a washer on top. As in a lot of applications, if you're going through, let's say, a motorcycle windshield and you want to fasten it to a bracket to hold it on which is a great application for this. You would push it through. You would put the screw in and then you would start to tighten this screw. I'm just going to use, now this doesn't mean you should use this for your application, depending on your application. I'm using this impact just to demonstrate to you and as you can see, it's tightening up there and that's the backside of the rivet nut or well nut.
And you don’t necessarily want to use this long of a screw, you can use a shorter screw. Again, this is demonstration to give you an idea what this looks like. That was the back and this is the front. So if you were installing glass, plexy glass, this is perfect. If you wanted to install something on your boat: fish finders or things of that nature, you can use this type of application.
So well nuts can be used in many different applications. Great for shock and vibration. Pull-through is an issue. It's not the best for that. If you use this in a saltwater environment, you're gonna have to change them. I don't know how many years (they will last) depends on how it holds up, but the EPDM will deteriorate over time in a saltwater environment. I just want to bring that to your attention, but you know, great for vibration applications, motorcycles, windshields and many other applications.
This is an awesome product. Thanks for watching.
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To prevent or stop galling (also known as seizing or locking-up) on stainless steel fasteners, we recommend using an anti-seize thread lubricant from our line of MRO Anti-Seize Solutions
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